Jojoba vegetable oil
Origin of jojoba oil
The jojoba, or simmondsia chinensis, is a shrub of the family of simmondsiaceae that appreciates the semi-desert climates of South America.
This wild shrub with persistent foliage, which reminds that of the olive tree, can reach up to 3 m high. He's not afraid of hot or cold. it happens to grow in the desert (arizona, mexico) where the temperature goes down the night between 5 and O°C and goes up during the day to 45°C.
Its roots, very long, allow it to fetch the water that it needs deeply in the soil. Despite the extreme conditions in which it grows, this shrub can live between 100 and 200 years. Jojoba is a dioïc species (male flowers and female flowers on different feet). the shrub with female flowers, after pollination, will bear brownish fruits similar to glands, each containing a large seed of 2 to 4 cm long. This seed can be stored for years. It is from this seed that the liquid wax or jojoba oil is extracted. discovered by the conquistadores and reported in the West by a Jesuit father, the liquid jojoba wax was known by the Indians of the sonora who used it for centuries to protect themselves from the burning sun and extreme climatic conditions. It is only in the 19th century that the mexic faculty of medicine recognizes the many qualities of this " wax". From the 1970s, its commercial production extended to many hot countries, such as Argentina, Australia, Egypt and Africa.
Production of jojoba oil
Since 1995, the Argentinean, with thousands of hectares of jojoba plantation, has become one of the main supplier for the international market. Jojoba oil is described as “oil”, but, by its chemical composition, it is rather a liquid vegetable wax that has 97% waxers and who appears below 15 degrees. As all quality and mainly organic oils, extraction is carried out by cold pressure without solvent. This method not only allows to retain all its constituents, but also to avoid the solvent removal operation. Jojoba seeds have an oil yield of about 50% of their weight.
Composition of jojoba oil
Research has resulted in a parallel between the physico-chemical constants of jojoba oil and the white of whale or spermaceti, a white substance present in the head of some cetaceans. A few years ago, whale white originated mainly from the cachalot but, as this species is threatened, the cosmetic industry now uses spermaceti from the whale. spermaceti, the main constituent is extracted: cetin, this substance gives creams a more gentle consistency than beeswax or cetylic alcohol. in cosmetics, the cetin is found as an ingredient in the name "cetyl palmitate". ".
Jojoba oil, with 97% waxy esters, belongs to the wax family and not oils. not fat to the affected, it contains many fatty acids like:Gadoleic acid (65 to 80%)Erucic acid (10-22)%Oelic acid (5 to 15,)% as well as others but in smaller proportions, such as palmitic acid, palmitic acid, palmitol acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, arachidic acid, nervonic acid.
In addition to these fatty acids, there is a component that plays a fundamental role in water retention: ceramides.
It is an oily molecule that can be of vegetable origin. It is also found in the intercellular cement both in the skin and hair. research evidenced that in ceramides had disappeared in damaged hair.
Properties of jojoba oil
Omega-9 or monounsaturated fatty acids are present in oleic acid, gadoleic acid and erucic acid.
These three acids represent practically the entire composition of jojoba oil.
- these fatty acids optimise permeability and therefore skin hydration by minimizing water loss.
- Jojoba oil is one of the few oils whose composition is similar to that of human sebum. She's fine participate in regulating its production and fight against fatty hair and acne. So she has an anti-seborrheic action.
- the vegetable ceramides contained in this oil will act as a repairer by leaving the hair scales. They will shed, protect and strengthen the hair. These will be smoother, more flexible, brighter and easier to unravel.
These ceramides also act at the skin level. they give the skin a healthy look, participate in the restoration of the lipid barrier, protect the skin from dehydration. your skin will be more supple, softer, firmer.
- The linoleic acid contained in jojoba oil intervenes in cellular regeneration. It allows to slow down the effects of aging, including loss of elasticity.
- jojoba oil can be used at all ages and on all skins, whatever dry, fat with acneic tendency and even sensitive, such as baby.
- Jojoba oil, by its high insaponifiable content, plays a role as a “solar filter”. It will therefore participate in the protection of the skin and hair against the sun. it will not replace a true UVA-UVB filter.
- by the absence of triglycerides in its composition, it is a stable oil that does not recur.
The 3 uses of jojoba oil
We saw above that the properties of jojoba oil allowed it to be used in many applications in facial, hair or body care.
1- Jojoba oil for the face
By its composition, this oil is suitable for all skin types: dry, sensitive, mixed, wrinkled skins, .. but this vegetable oil is especially recommended for fat and acneic skins because it is considered non-occlusive (which does not mouth pores,) non-comedogenic (black spots) and that it regulates and emulsifies the sebum.
This oil, by easily penetrating in the epidermis where it occurs in cellular regeneration, can be used pure or serve as a basis for your day and night creams. This oil brings softness and protection to your skin without leaving greasy veil on the skin.
2- Jojoba oil for hair
Jojoba oil is an excellent treatment for hair. She will feed them, soften them, strengthen them and increase their brilliance. omega-9 and vegetable ceramides contained in this oil will restore vitality to dry, brittle and damaged hair.
On fatty hair, it regulates excess sebum by reducing excess pellicles and slowing down their "re-grashing"
One can use this oil on the hair in several ways:
- put a little jojoba oil in the hollow of the hand, let it warm and apply it gently, massage the wicks one by one.
- for dry hair, once a week, we can use it pure, in mask on tips.
- for fatty hair, it can be used in a rebalancing mask, applied directly to the scalp.
- for damaged hair, you can use it as a mask on all hair.
Nota: for the hair mask to be effective, it is necessary:
a - wrap the hair in a hot towel
b - let rest at least one hour
c - rinse with organic shampoo
3- Jojoba oil for the body
From application on the skin, this oil, which easily penetrates without leaving any fat film, forms a hydrolipidic film thus limiting its dehydration.
This soothing, healing and softening oil is suitable for all skin types. It can, for example, be used to increase the elasticity of the skin and thus prevent stretches (if frequent during pregnancy) or in treatment oil after a bath or hair removal.
This oil, extremely nourishing penetrates quickly into the skin without leaving any oily sensation. it leaves your very soft after application. It is also very appreciated as massage oil, pure or mixed with other ingredients like essential oils.
Jojoba oil in massage
With its ability to penetrate immediately into the skin, this oil can be used as a massage oil base mixed with essential oils in local applications for skin, hair or hands care.
One can easily create one's own massage oil, using "soft" and non-aggressive essential oils, the total concentration of essential oils should not exceed:
Oil for the face: 1 to 2 % (20 to 40 drops per 100 ml)
Body massage oil: 2 to 5% (40 to 100 drops per 100 ml)
1ml of essential oil = 15 to 20 drops (following the codigoutte)
In one-off action and limited parts of the body (except the face) you can increase the concentrations, but if you have redness or reactions, you will need to decrease the concentrations or change essential oil.
Small reminder of essential oils: They are not recommended for pregnant and nursing women. for children, divide the quantities by two. citrus fruits are photosensitive, so you must avoid exposure to the sun after applying this type of essential oils.