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You\'ve got some wood chips in your house?

These stinging bugs from 1 to 8 mm, by their flattened forms, progress easily on the skin of your pets (cat and dog). Adult chips drown in blood. Fertilized female chips begin to lay 24 to 48 hours after the meal and cease until they die. They lay an average of 20 to 30 eggs a day. The flea larvae are mobile and photophobic. They live under the carpets, under the folds and in the floor slots ( hence their name parquet chip!).

The fight against chips, to be effective, must be carried out over the long term. First, treat your animals with a veterinary insecticide. It will then be necessary to treat with a natural pyrethre based insecticide (pulverisation + fumigène). Pulverize in a methodical manner under the cushions, inside the armchairs, in the grooves of your floors, at the level of the folds, without forgetting all the interstices whatever they can accommodate flea larvae. Do not hesitate to renew the treatment 1 week after the first to ensure you destroy all the chips that have evolved from the egg stage to the adult stage between time and that you would not have reached the first passage.


Why natural insecticides?

Ending the chips is one thing, but if you could save your health and your environment, wouldn\'t it be better? Did you know that some conventional insecticide particles remained for several months in your processed parts? Fumigen is the worst because the particles fall on all objects, textiles, parts of the room. Unless you carefully wash each item, you will find yourself inevitably with chemical substances. Opting for natural insecticides will allow both to get rid of chips but also, by the composition of our products and their low remanence, to continue living in a healthy environment.

Read all our tips and discover all our products to naturally fight against chips: pedestal file

Floor flea: cat or dog flea... jumping champion ! !

Have you seen fleas in your home recently? They are starting to invade your home and you don't know where to start? A floor flea infestation can get complicated if you don't act quickly. Discover in this file a set of answers and products that will allow you to fight naturally against this invasive insect.

I wish

Get to know the floor feat

(identity, mode of feeding, reproduction, ...)

Fight against the floor feat

(methodology of action, natural insecticides, ...)

Who is the flea ?

Pièces buccales de la puce de type broyeur

Latin name: Ctenocephalides felis
Order: Siphonaptera
Family: Pulicidae
Size: 1 to 8 mm
Location: all habitats
Period: all year round

General information on the flea

puce de parquetIts first description dates from the years 1400 BC! The 2000 known species belong to the order Siphonaptera.

The flea, measuring a few millimeters long, can be considered, thanks to its robust hind legs, as the champion of the jump both in length (40 cm) and in height (20 cm).

Its legs, with the presence of thorns grouped in series, allow it to cling firmly to its host.

Its body, compressed on each side, allows it to move easily between the hairs or the fur of its host. Not liking the light, it lives mainly deep in the fur.

It is an ectoparasite (it lives on the body surface of a living being), which sucks the blood of mammals or birds.

It likes temperatures between 18 and 27°C and a humidity level of around 70%.

The ideal conditions for its development are therefore rather in hot and humid periods such as spring or autumn.

The flea dies when you expose it for an hour to a temperature > 39°C.

The adult flea can live for 6 to 12 months and the larva can survive up to 2 months without food.

Its oral apparatus is made up of 3 stylets: the middle one, hollow, which allows the aspiration of blood, while the other 2 allow the injection of saliva (anti-coagulant).

The irritation is caused by the reaction of the host's immune system to substances present in the flea's salivary secretions.

The flea needs a host

le chat porteur de pucesThe human flea (Pulex irritans) has fortunately become extremely rare in our country.

It also infests pigs, foxes, badgers and hedgehogs.

It can, in certain rare countries, with the rat flea (Xenopsylla chaeopsis), transmit the bubonic plague bacillus.

Dog and cat fleas can also transmit an intestinal parasite, Dipylidium caninum. It is therefore advisable to deworm your animal regularly in addition to the fight against fleas.

The dog flea, Ctenocephalides canis, infects dogs and cats.

But the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis, is the most common: it infests of course cats, but also many European mammals such as dogs... and possibly humans if they pass by!

Birds, wild or domestic, are regular victims of fleas (infested nests). Examples include Ceratophyllus gallinae, the scourge of chicken coops, and Dasypsyllus gallinulae, common among small birds.

Usually, the flea therefore prefers to live on animals such as cats or dogs, but in the absence of its favorite animal, it can jump on humans.

This situation arises, for example, if the pet is absent from the home for some time or in the event of a major infestation..

How does the flea locate its host to feed ?

Fleas locate their hosts thanks to a very specialized recognition system, called chemoreceptors, located on the antennae. These chemoreceptors are sensitive to different parameters:
- Olfactory
- Perception of heat
- Infrared radiation
- Day/night vision
- Chemo-olfactory (perception of specific molecules and smells)
- Vibes

Specific data (osmolarity, salinity, chemical composition) confirm to “biting suckers” such as fleas that they are indeed sucking blood and that they can therefore feed themselves. The accuracy of sensory perception is related to the number of chemoreceptors. The flea that lives close to its host has few antenna receptors (less than 50, compared to a mosquito or a fly which can have up to 5000). These also serve the needs of sexuality.

Pet = fleas, so be careful !

  • If the animal scratches abnormally and loses its hair,
  • If combing sessions reveal an increase in the flea population,
  • If their excrement, a fine black dust on the skin, is visible and abundant when the hair is parted,
  • If  fleas attack more and more people living in the house,
  • If your cat or dog regularly moves outside the house during favorable periods (heat, humidity).

What you need to know about the flea

puce de parquet

There are various types of fleas, all of which come from animals (cats, dogs, birds, rats, etc.). The cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis) is the most common species in our homes. Your pet is certainly carrying fleas without you realizing it.

The flea is a wingless insect (wingless), which lives on a host (animal, man), and feeds on its blood. After sucking blood, the flea irritates the skin leaving a red spot with a dark red dot in the center. It mainly parasitizes cats and dogs. But in the absence of its favorite hosts, it easily accommodates other hosts, you for example. It is necessary to be wary of it because it is a vector of disease (typhus, tapeworm, allergies, ...) In rabbits, for example, it is she who transmits myxomatosis.

Why is it called "floor flea" ?

patte de puce

The flea lays its eggs on its host. However, eggs can easily detach from the fur of a cat or a dog and fall into the places visited by the pet: between the slats of a parquet floor, in the carpet, in its basket, on your sofa. , ... If the conditions are favorable, there may be a sudden and massive outbreak of "parquet fleas".

Under favorable conditions (heat + humidity), a flea larva reaches the adult stage in 2 to 3 weeks. Under bad conditions (absence of host, low temperatures), the cycle can last up to 6 months.

Flea populations generally peak in late summer, when the temperature and humidity necessary for adult emergence are optimal.

A single female lays an average of 200 eggs throughout her life. This means that adult fleas represent only 1% of the total flea population (99% are in the form of eggs or larvae). It is therefore not surprising that after a few days of absence from your home, you find a "carpet" of fleas jumping on your parquet or carpet.

Flea development cycles

The flea has four development cycles: egg, larva, pupa and adult.
The length of the life cycle depends on the species, temperature, humidity and access to food.
If all the favorable conditions are met, a flea reaches the adult stage in two to three weeks. Otherwise, its development may take several months.

The egg stage
After each blood meal, the female flea lays four to eight round eggs, measuring about 0.5 mm, with a smooth shell, whitish in color and sticky in texture. The eggs laid on the animal do not stay there and fall when it scratches. The places often frequented by the dog (or the cat) are very rich in eggs! Under optimal conditions, the female can lay up to 25 eggs in 1 day. She will lay about 800 during her lifetime.
The larval stage
After 2 to 12 days, a larva is born (vermiform, white and hairy 1 to 5 mm long), where the egg has fallen. This larva is mobile. As she fears the light, she takes refuge in preferably dark places. It is also sensitive to variations in humidity and temperature. The larval state lasts from 1 to 3 weeks, if the conditions are favorable (18° to 27° and 70% relative humidity). The larvae is detricolous, which means that it feeds on the excrement of adult fleas and the remains of animal faeces. The larvae can survive up to two hundred days in adverse conditions and move distances of up to 30 cm per minute. The larva wraps itself around the nearest object, often the fibers of a carpet, which saves it from falling victim to the vacuum cleaner. The larva then weaves a cocoon and pupates.
The nymph stage
During the third stage of development, the larva becomes covered with dust, fibers, grains of sand, and organic debris. Under this covering, she weaves a cocoon with the silk provided by her labial glands. In its cocoon, the larva is protected from all external aggressions: heat, desiccation, etc. It can thus survive for several months without feeding. Normally, the nymph evolves in 1 to 2 weeks but this state can last up to 1 year if the conditions are unfavorable. As soon as the chrysalis detects the presence of a host (animal or human) by vibrations, heat or a higher concentration of carbon dioxide (which occurs during the passage of a cat, a dog, etc. . or a man), it comes out of its cocoon and jumps on this host to take a blood meal. The flea grows rapidly taking on a lighter reddish-brown color. So you can very quickly be invaded by the so-called floor flea. This phenomenon is very common after a few weeks of absence (holidays) or in holiday homes.
The adult stage
See above "General on the flea".

As a preventive measure: our recommendations

  • Try to prohibit your pet from all places where it will be difficult to eliminate fleas (bed, sofa, attic, etc.).
  • Regularly wash or treat the place where your pet sleeps and mainly the fabrics or blankets.
  • Regularly vacuum all rooms or surfaces where your pet has passed or slept. Don't forget the corners and the underside of furniture and rugs. Insist well on the carpets, cushions, carpets and all the surfaces containing fibers, the larvae clinging around these. Avoid using the brush which tends to disperse the eggs.
  • In the event of an infestation, do not hesitate to immediately dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag: burn it or, after wrapping it in plastic, put it in the freezer.

As a cure: treat the floor flea

puce de parquetIf foggers (foggers creating a mist of insecticide) or insecticide bombs can possibly destroy adult fleas, they will not destroy eggs.

Indeed, the neurotoxins act neither on the eggs nor on the well-protected larvae in their cocoons. To destroy the eggs and larvae, you need a "mechanical action" product such as paraffin oil (this is the case of the All Insects Pistal product) or potassium soap (the case of our 4J insecticide). The egg or larva must also be physically in contact with the product.

Depending on the degree of infestation, various products are available to you.

1.The first thing to do is to treat your animal. As long as he carries fleas, you will continue to have them in your home. Here are the tips we can give you:

- Wash it regularly with a special anti-parasite shampoo.

- Comb (use a fine-toothed comb) your animal regularly, especially the nape of the neck and around the tail, after untangling the coat with a brush.

- Preventive or curative for the treatment of your animals, you will find on our site many effective and natural products in our section  "Protection of pets". These products are usually used at the beginning of the risk season, but for some animals that live permanently in heated rooms, it is sometimes necessary to treat throughout the year.

2. Then, treat its environment with our 4J insecticide diluted to 5% : Anything can go through it: basket, fabrics, blankets, niche, ... This is an important precaution, because fleas adults lay eggs on their host, which can fall and therefore hatch, in places where the animal lies down.

3. On any type of soil, if you are heavily overgrown (hundreds of fleas jumping everywhere), spray all surfaces with our ready-tu-use 5% diluted 4J insecticide. If you are starting to have large areas to treat, prefer the concentred 4J insecticide (same product but in its concentrated form). You will do the dilution: 5% pure product + 95% water.

For large areas of treatment, a garden-type sprayer will be more efficient and practical than a vaporizer. Any fleas affected by the insecticide should die immediately. Do not forget the corners or the underside of the furniture.

After this treatment, vacuum in order to eliminate the corpses by insisting well on the carpets, cushions, carpet and all the surfaces comprising fibers, the larvae clinging around these. We advise you to put on a pair of boots to perform this operation because it is likely that fleas will jump on your legs!

Note: to make 5 liters of insecticide with a 5% concentration, you need 250ml of 4J concentrate. This will allow you to treat approximately 50m². To treat 100m², provide a 500ml bottle. This insecticide also exists in 125ml (25m²) and 1 liter (200m²).

larve de puce en plein repas

4. The All Insects Aries aerosol being under pressure, it will be ideal for reaching more difficult spaces to which you would not have access with a sprayer or a vaporizer. Freezing insecticide will also work well as a direct spray on fleas.

5. Then treat fragile fabrics and coverings with our Ecodoo insecticide spray (carpets, rugs, couch, sofa, armchair, cushions, etc.).

6. On slatted floors (with grooves) or other identical surfaces, a treatment with 4J insecticide diluted to 5% is also recommended. Flea larvae fleeing light and drought, they take refuge in small nooks such as parquet cracks (hence their name), but also behind and under furniture, under the edges of carpets, along baseboards, in heating and ventilation ducts and in all places where the ground is shaded and damp.

7. For wooden floors, it is really important to treat the grooves well, which usually contain dust. You can use a garden-type sprayer or a sprayer set to "jet" so that the whole of this groove is well impregnated with insecticide. Eggs and larvae must be coated with product for it to work.

Do not sweep but rather vacuum, in order to avoid the dispersion of eggs to the four corners of your house.

8. To be sure to put the odds on your side, you can act by fumigation once the 4J insecticide treatment has been carried out. For this, the Habitat fogger will be perfect. It is an automatic insecticide diffuser based on active ingredients of plant origin (pyrethrum + geraniol), intended for basic treatment of the habitat. Very volatile, the solution is deposited in the smallest recesses where parasites and insects lodge. Immediate and prolonged action, up to 4 months. 3 different formats exist: 75 ml for a treatment of less than 15 m², 150 ml, for a treatment of less than 30 m². Finally, 250 ml, for a treatment larger than 30 m².

The products you need against fleas

Step 1 - I make sure my pet is flea-free

Before you even start treating your rooms, protect your pet by removing all fleas. If you do not go through this step, there will inevitably remain fleas jumping from its coat to your armchairs or floors. Several repellent products can help you with this. In the form of a spray lotion, dry shampoo foam or powder or simply shampoo to wash. Beware, these products are sold as insect repellent. That is to say that they do not destroy the insect. Their function is to expel them from the animal thanks to powerful plant active ingredients. If the infestation is too large and the fleas won't go away, opt for a veterinary product.

Step 2 - I tackle the surface treatment of my home

Once your pet is flea free (and this is often the key to success), you can treat your parts with our insecticidal products below :

4J insecticide diluted 5% - All insects -...

4J insecticide diluted at 5% ready to use. With this concentration, you will destroy most flying or crawling insects very quickly....
In stock

4J Plant Pyrethrum Insecticide Concentrate...

4J insecticide concentrate to dilute. Effective against a large number of crawling and flying insects in our homes. Bottles of 125,...
In stock

Fogger Habitat with plant-based active...

This is fogger composed of plant-based assets is intended for the background treatment of the habitat in case of infestation by mites,...
In stock

Step 3 - I protect my pet to prevent him from getting fleas again

Do not neglect this last step. It remains essential and needs to be renewed from time to time if you don't want the fleas to come back. For this, we offer you insect repellent collars, pipettes and sprays, either based on geraniol or based on Margosa extract. Finally, don't forget to relieve itching with our soothing and deodorizing lotion STOP Gratte based on natural plant extracts.

Discover our complete range of natural products allowing you to fight against parquet fleas.

Accédez à notre page "Produits contre les puces de parquet"

Client experience

According to the feedback from our customers who have followed this procedure, you can expect the complete disappearance of fleas in 1 or 2 treatment(the following exchange of mail is interesting because it highlights a few points) :

Our client: I wanted to inform you of my delight (hope it lasts!) regarding the anti-flea treatment that I carried out in my house. In addition to the ease of use and the very pleasant smell that spreads, I haven't seen any fleas since yesterday. I've been dragging them for 2 years, it's a real relief! I will follow your advice and renew the treatment within a fortnight.

Penn'ty Bio: After a treatment, it is necessary to vacuum in order to eliminate the larvae which were not killed. The carrier animal must either be treated correctly (see with your veterinarian or our products to treat dogs and dogs), or not return.

Our client: I treated for the first time the small outbuilding (30 m²) which was the most affected and the stone shelters around the garden with your insecticide diluted to 5%. A few days later, there were still fleas but much fewer and smaller. I did a 2nd treatment a little less concentrated (3%) to save money. A week later, even fewer fleas and still small ones. I feel like it's new outbreaks every time and the product is less effective on the eggs. I have enough product left to prepare 1 or 2 litres. What do you think and what do you recommend?

Penn'ty Bio: There's something I'm missing. The flea cycle is as follows: after each blood meal, female fleas lay 4 to 8 eggs. The egg hatches after a few days and a larva emerges. The larva is not a parasite. It goes through 3 stages during which it feeds on organic debris, larval remains and dried blood found in the excretions of adult fleas. It then covers itself with dust, fibres, organic debris and under this covering, it weaves a cocoon which partly protects it from insecticides. Favorable conditions promote its emergence: vibrations, increased temperature and carbon dioxide concentrations. The emergence of adults is then immediate and the cycle can continue. This means that either the treatment is insufficient and the larvae are not destroyed (the larvae are only destroyed if they are physically wetted by the insecticide), or you have cats that regularly return to this addiction and bring back new fleas. A client who called me yesterday treated her cats and then her apartment with 4J insecticide diluted at 5%. Result: she no longer has a flea but the carrier cat no longer comes home! In addiction, after a treatment, vacuum in order to eliminate the larvae (dead or alive) and prevent the cats from returning to them. Normally, by doing so, your problem should have been solved at the 1st treatment! If the cats don't come in anymore but you can't vacuum it because the fleas can't breed anymore, you're going to get them eventually. If, on the other hand, you cannot prevent the cats from returning, then there are only 2 solutions: use a radical insecticide treatment (stamp that you will obtain from a veterinarian) or wait for the cold to stop the reproduction cycle of the cats. fleas !

Our client: I used the rest of the product to treat my addiction again and 2 days later I vacuumed as you advised. Subsequently, the dependency remained closed. I have since been back 2 times and haven't seen fleas jumping on my legs like before, so it seems to be resolved. I'm still going to wait for the winter cold before I open again and let the cat in.

Testimonial from a client on the use of our 4J flea insecticide :

I take the time to leave a comment here, because we thought we would never get out of the flea mess, and it was in desperation that we came to test this product. Here is the initial situation: our dog had had fleas for several months.

I first, from my convictions, tried several methods to scare them away, with essential oil of lavender and others, white vinegar, etc... It seemed to limit the damage this winter, but however, we were never completely rid of it. In spring-summer, of course, the fleas multiplied. Having "insect skin" ;), I got bitten a lot (not my companion :(), and our dog too I guess, judging by the increasing number we saw on his body, and the scratches.

After trying the Fr*ntl*ne C*mb* pipettes to no avail (our dog was always full of fleas, with no observed effect), we inquired further and learned that many flea species had developed resistance to the active molecule of Fr*ntl*ne. We then turned to Adv*c*te to treat our dog: immediate success! 2 months + later, still no flea on doggie :)! 1st win! But still fleas in the apartment (old parquet on the 3 main rooms), and therefore still bites for me! 2 sessions of foggers "Cl*m*nt Th*kan + later, always fleas! New search on the net: and there, we come across the penntybio site!

Let's get started: we put all our clothes in large garbage bags with diatomaceous earth sprinkled on them (I don't know if this step had an effect..), waiting to wash them and gradually reintegrate them in the apartment (and to switch to 60°C / in the dryer / iron the 1st "batches" reintegrated! :)).

Then, big cleaning: vacuum thoroughly everywhere, especially on the baseboards and on the parquet, then vacuum bag in the trash. We bought for less than 10€ a very simple garden vaporizer, with a handle to vaporize, in a large DIY store like C*st*. We filled this vape with the 4J concentrate diluted to 5%, as recommended by Penntybio. Rubber boots on + tropical mosquito repellent spray on: we are armed ;)! We used the Ecodoo spray sold on this same site for wooden furniture (especially those that were quite "porous" with lots of gaps!), fragile fabrics (leather...), non-washable backpacks/handbags, in short , anything that could have been used to transport or harbor fleas or their eggs/larvae... Then, after waiting 30 minutes for the vapors of the Ecodoo spray to dissipate (it's very strong, it's better to spray then leaving the room ;)), we came back with the garden spray filled with diluted 4J and sprayed meticulously, first all around the room (the baseboards), then all the floor, so that not a cm2 of floor had been in contact with the product, insisting on the cracks in the floor, which I totally flooded!

Then, with the rest of the spray product (the doses indicated by penntybio per m2 are exact, we didn't need less, that's for sure!) and the 4-day spray already diluted to 5% bought on this same site, we treated the last surfaces, car type (we especially insisted on the trunk, where the doggie stays during trips, and on the floors) and possibly the places at our parents' house where our dog had been likely to stay + for a long time (but we did it in a + light way, because no real infestation in our parents / families...).

Then, we let it all marinate for at least 24 hours, then we came back, we aired it out and started by mopping the floors, not too wet (so as not to remove too much product in the interstices), especially smooth ones (tiles, etc) which were indeed a little viscous or even slippery (when I tell you that we put a good dose of product everywhere ;)). Then aspi' (bag thrown again this time, and the following ones will not be thrown away but at least sprayed once with the ecodoo before placing them in the aspi'), and gradual return to normal, with the feeling to have almost prepared a move anyway (except for the kitchen cupboards which we hardly touched because doggie only passes through or eats, and tiled floor, so less risk of infestation)!

I think it takes 2 good days (9 a.m. to 6 p.m.) to treat an apartment (60 m² for us) properly (we also have a small garden of 50 m2, we just shortened the height of the wild grass and grass, no need to treat with 4J insecticide). For us in any case, the time to tidy up, put the washable textiles in a bag or directly in the machine for the most urgent, to clean, treat, re-clean, put back in place... it took us 48 hours, two . On the product side, it is necessary to count (still for our surface of 60m² + car and a few additional spray shots): 250mL of 4d concentrate, 500mL of 4d diluted in its spray, 1 spray of 300mL of ecodoo insecticide + 1 garden spray, and of course, household gloves and large bags for clothes (we took the recycling bags distributed free of charge by our city!). Honestly, it's laborious, but what a relief to find an apartment without fleas!!

Personally, I couldn't believe it!! It's been 1 month now, and 0 fleas to report! We didn't even need to do another treatment! Of course, for the time being, and I think for at least the next 12 months, we will continue to pipette our dog every month Adv*c*t*... If I take the time to write all this , is that it was a pain for us, but that I am happy to have found a solution to treat our environment effectively and as naturally as possible. So, admittedly it seems a bit expensive (but personally, considering the hell, I didn't care about the price after 2 fogger failures!), it's a manual treatment so a bit tedious (but hey, you just have to get started, after it's ok), the product is a little viscous... But I don't regret it for a second, and to do it again, I'll do it without even going through the stage - in my opinion totally useless! - foggers! So ! Thank you Penntybio for giving us the tools to get rid of those daily flea bites! And once the "flea paranoid" has been totally forgotten (in a year or 2? :)), I may even try to do without the Adv*c*te pipette on my dog, and replace it with one of your products... To see :). I hope that this testimonial will allow others than us to find a serene life, and will also restore confidence in "natural" products (even if of course natural does not mean that there is no toxicity for any organism alive, natural pyrethrum, after reading several articles, seems to be all the same a lesser evil...).

Courage to all those struggling with an insect infestation: we can overcome it! :)

This is what a moving flea looks like

Flea Frequently Asked Questions

Q : Our 21 month old female cat weighing 6.5 kg was infested with fleas last summer; she lives mainly indoors To eradicate fleas and on her and in our house, we used a multitude of chemical and natural products without result (still fleas) moreover she had peeling of her skin and her black hair is filled whiteheads: is it dandruff or flea eggs? what to do to get rid of it before a new infestation? In addition, our dining room tiles are decorated, we think, with flea cocoons (encrusted black dots that we cannot peel off). Thank you for advising us in a natural and above all effective way.
A :  I know cats don't like this but you should start by giving her a special flea shampoo and a lice comb (see our category "Protection of pets). Then you can possibly treat her against new For soil you can treat with our 4J Insecticide This will kill fleas and eggs.

Q : Am interested in your dog and cat flea products. I am nevertheless surprised that essential oils are used in products for cats, these proving to be toxic, even fatal, even in the smallest doses! For more info see this site in English: However the collar does not seem to contain any (plant extracts). While waiting for your answer, receive my cordial greetings Martine, very satisfied customer of your cosmetics and maintenance products
A : This was an error in the description text. We changed that. Certain molecules that have a repellent action are extracted from essential oils. For more information, do not hesitate to consult our file on essential oils and the cat.

Q : Despite ongoing treatment for fleas and a collar, our cat still has them because he scratches, and they have certainly taken up residence in our bedroom and on the sofa because I'm bitten. I used 4J PYRETHRE 5% insecticide which I sprayed on the mattress and the sofa. I washed the pillows the cushions, but without much result. What product should we use for this problem, especially what do you recommend as a product to spray on the mattress and the sofa where we can access without risk for us. I thank you in advance for your answer and will order from you as soon as I know the magic formula. I forgot to tell you that in the bedroom it is a slatted floor flea where I also sprayed the product. The vacuum cleaner is passed every week including the double-sided mattress and the same for the sofa.
A : Our insecticide only kills fleas that have been touched by the product (contact insecticide). To be effective, you must start by making sure that your animal no longer carries either a flea or an egg, but also its diaper or cushion. For slatted floor, it's a little more complicated, the answers are in our "floor flea" file.

Q : I have a driveway of small pebbles and my husband noticed that the fleas had nests there, what product should I use to destroy them because our dogs are always full of fleas despite the treatments?
A : Simply treat your driveway with our 4J insecticide as if you were treating hardwood floors. Do the treatment during the coolest hours so that the pyrethrum of the product is not damaged by UV too quickly.

Q : Is there an essential oil to diffuse against wood fleas, I heard that chamomile or mint were effective, true or false? but is an oil suitable, if not what else? Thank you for the answer, no need to tell me the commercial fumigators, I know!
A : You can still diffuse whatever essential oil you want, but if you have flea eggs or larvae, they won't go away. They must be destroyed with a contact insecticide, starting of course by treating your pets.

Q : I have a cat who is about 3 and a half months old, we have had him since mid September he must have been born at the beginning of September we found him abandoned. Today we realize that despite the products used to get rid of fleas there are still some and the worst thing is that now we are attacked ourselves, on your site there are products but I am a little lost. Could you help me, knowing that we have a large house 240m² that most of the floors are wooden. and if there is something to put on our cat?
A : Unlike the dog flea, the cat flea attacks humans. You will find information about the house and the cat in our file "floor flea".

Q : How to get rid of apartment fleas? Which product is the most natural possible? the least harmful (baby!!!)? What treatment? How long?
A : As the flea is relatively easy to eliminate, you can use our Insecticide for all insects (4J diluted at 5%) and/or Ecodoo Ready-to-Use Insecticide. The first being more suitable for treating large surfaces and floor, the second more for treating beds, sofas or closed volumes (cupboards, cupboards, etc.).

Q : Is there an easy way to kill fleas and their eggs at all stages in clothing? For example, drowning them by soaking the clothes in water for an hour before going through the washing machine, or washing the clothes at a certain temperature (which one: 40° or 60° or 90°), or ironing them at what temperature, or put them in the fridge, freezer, or expose them to light or lock them for how long in a plastic bag with... or, or, or, ???
A : She likes temperatures between 18 and 27°C and a humidity level of around 70%. The flea dies when you expose it for an hour to a temperature > 39°C, but also if you put your clothes in the freezer.

Q : I noticed several bites that should be fleas, I have no pets, nor in my entourage; how can you have fleas at home in this case?
A :  If it's not a flea, maybe it's a bedbug? But you could very well have brought it home through your clothes.

Q : Every year for 8 years I have an invasion of fleas (which are not animal but I think floor).
A : The floor flea is just a flea from an animal that grows in floor grooves! See also our file "floor flea".

Q : Hello, we are currently overrun with fleas in a new lodge. We treated the house and the garage twice with smoke bombs (fogger type) bought at a high price in pharmacies. The problem is that the garage (not waterproof) is still infested this morning (treatment carried out the night before last!...), as is the landing/threshold of the garage and especially the entirely gravelled courtyard. can you help me urgently. We have 2 cats and young children, and my pregnant partner is very bitten by fleas, which is why your ORGANIC and human-safe products are of particular interest to us.
A : You should know that some smoke bombs sold on the market are totally ineffective (many feedback from our customers) and that in any case, they do not kill the eggs. They must be supplemented with a "liquid" contact insecticide treatment. See also our file "floor flea".

Q : My house is invaded by fleas, they are everywhere parquet beds sofas .... and black and brown in color I tried the products sold in pharmacies but they are not very effective and make me sick what can you advise me and to what price ? you should know that I have a dog and a cat at home, that I live on a farm and that my agricultural buildings are also infested.
A : Rule n°1, you must also treat your animals otherwise the treatments of the buildings will not be sufficient. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Huge problem: my cats and dog are treated against fleas with spray, pipettes, collars but we are invaded by fleas outside, in the grass, on the ground... so even with the treatments when my animals pass through the garden... .. it's an endless cycle and we can't find any solution, all the sprays are for interior, except a powder but no result. Thank you for your reply.
A : You can use our 4J Insecticide to treat the exterior but it will biodegrade quickly. For fleas, a 5% dilution is sufficient. Apply on dry soil and preferably in the evening, to limit the destructive action of UV and heat on pyrethrum. Any fleas touched by the product will die.

Q : What can I use against fleas in the tropics?
A : If the fleas are in your house, the treatment remains the same as for the flea encountered in France. The flea can, like most insects, transmit diseases. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Can you offer me a flea and tick solution for cats?
A : The cat is very sensitive to all products, so you should not apply any product to it. You will find various repellent products in our section "Protection of pets)

Q : Hello - I'm a man and I have fleas - I'm looking for a body product + an anti-parasitic shampoo for humans.
A : There is no specific product for men, but lice shampoo should normally be effective against fleas as well.

Q : Hello, I am a little lost with all your products. My apartment is infested with fleas even though I haven't had any pets for a month. I also have parquet and carpet at home, so what should I use? I have already treated three times with products bought in pet stores but the fleas reappear and are very attracted to my skin! Please let me know which of your products would be suitable
A : You can have fleas for 1 year after having pets, eggs are very hardy. The insecticides that you will find in pet stores, pharmacies or supermarkets are often very insufficient to get rid of them. In particular, they will not destroy the eggs. These require contact treatment as with our 4J insecticide. To protect you from bites, we have a very effective anti-insect skin spray lotion based on eucalyptus citriodora. To find out about the treatment protocol and all the products necessary for an anti-flea treatment, we invite you to read or re-read our file dedicated to this insect. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : We have nearly 200 m2 + 1 x 1 kg kitten (2 1/2 months) and 1 x 9 kg dog to treat. Flea recurrence with Frontline + frequent spraying of anti-flea product throughout the house (carpet, litter, animal bed) but in vain. Can you give us a quote for all the products needed to get rid of all the fleas, eggs and larvae. Are your products 100% effective. We're a bit more of all these fleas!
A : For the Fro*tli*e branded product, this is not surprising. Several customers have already told us that fleas are getting used to this type of product. This is why Fro*tli*e co*bo (new version) was released. Concerning animals, our products are more to be used as a preventive than a curative, except possibly our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel which gives good results on most insects. It can be used on all warm-blooded animals, except cats, which cannot be treated with essential oils. Concerning your house, we use 1 liter of diluted insecticide for 10m² of surface. If done well, one treatment is sufficient. Given your surface, it is best to take the 4j in its concentrated form and dilute it to 5%. This will be enough to destroy the fleas. For more information and answers, go to our special file floor fleas.

Q : Are there any repellents that can be applied to the body to prevent flea bites?
A : Our insect repellent skin spray should also be effective on the flea. It contains eucalyptus citriodora which creates a remarkable repellent effect on all biting-sucking insects such as fleas. But I also advise you to treat the fleas themselves, otherwise, you are only doing half the job!

Q : I have been fighting fleas for a year, I was roommates with someone who had a cat that brought fleas. I've been living without a pet for 4 months now and I can't get rid of them, especially in my clothes (pants, jeans especially). I spray my clothes every day but they always come back!
A : Fleas do not live in clothes. On the other hand, they seek the heat of your body and blood to nourish themselves. It is necessary to properly treat your apartment and at the same time wash your clothes.

Q : Our chicken coop is infested with fleas. how to get rid of it?
A :  Start by cleaning it well (excrement, straw, etc.) then use a garden-type sprayer to treat all surfaces with our insecticide (diluted at 5%). Repeat this operation a week later.

Q : My son has just rented a house, and there are fleas in the room, my daughter-in-law was bitten 45 times in the same day. we know that the previous tenant had a dog. In addition there is parquet in the bedroom. What must we do? will bug spray be enough? thank you for your reply greetings.
A : No, a smoke bomb will not be enough. Besides not working well (it won't destroy flea eggs), it will poison you for quite a while. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Hello my daughter has fleas at home, I think it must be parquet fleas but I think it was her cat who brought them back. We have already cleaned everything and put smoke bombs in the rooms but she still has some. I would like to know how to get rid of it or if the smoke bombs will still have their effects afterwards. Thank you in advance have a nice day.
A : Smoke bombs are effective (not all!!) on insects but not on eggs and I don't think it has any after-use effects. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Can you tell me which product you sell is the most effective in getting rid of fleas that I have in my apartment. I await your response to place an order. Thanks.
A : The products we sell often have complementary actions. But if you only want to use one, the most essential of all will be our 4J insecticide. You can easily find it on our site. It exists either in diluted form (ready to use), or pure, to be diluted yourself to the desired concentration. The 5% dilution being the one we recommend against the flea.

Q : After having used 5 smoke bombs for 3 rooms of normal size I still have fleas on my floor, in anger I washed it with strongly chlorinated and hot water this morning and still nothing on my legs. I have been in this house for almost a year. Last year a smoke bomb was enough. I seek advice, inexpensively, if it was possible, thank you. I have a cat, I don't want to part with it.
A : Be aware that smoke bombs do not kill eggs, and hatching can be very rapid. Start by checking your cat for fleas and eggs before continuing to treat, otherwise you're wasting your time.

Q : We bought a barn which makes 200 m2 habitable we break and redo our house. But we get bitten by fleas. There are plenty of them, we put smoke bombs but there are still some. What do you recommend please. + a repellent for us please.
A : Smoke bombs can be effective but only in a fully enclosed room and they do not kill the eggs. Either you treat several times with smoke bombs at 48 hour intervals, but you will not be guaranteed to have eliminated them all, or you treat with our liquid insecticide + a smoke bomb. Operation that you will renew 1 week later. To protect you, our anti-insect skin spray will give excellent results against bites.

Q : Hello, I was with a friend of mine who has a cat with fleas. I caught some and got bitten by this parasite. the same day I was at my friend's house, I slept with another friend who has seven cats. I would like to know if I was able to transmit these fleas to his cats, or even to my cat and especially what to do so that my bites no longer itch. my doctor prescribed me cortisone and said it was to help me but it still itches, please help me!
A : A cat flea can pass on humans or dogs and come back to the cat. So you were able to send it or them elsewhere. For the sting, we often use essential oil of lavandin or our roll on, it calms the itching.

Q : Is ALT'O ZINSECT spray effective against fleas too? can have use it for dog, cat? the Zero flea 30 ml is used in one go on the animal or in several times?
A :  Our ALT'O ZINSECT spray insect repellent is very effective on all parasites. And especially biting-sucking insects like the flea. It can be applied to dogs, but avoid application to cats. He is too sensitive an animal. Otherwise, it can be used on all animals. For the 30 ml pipette product with Margosa, this will depend on the size of the animal. Normally, 30 ml allows you to do several treatments without problems.

Q : How to get rid of fleas and why are they there?
A : All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to the floor flea. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Fleas on my 2 cats and rabbit and guinea pig which do not go away despite combing and frontline combo vet products. Smaller fleas in the house since June. coming back from vacation, there were some on the ground, we saw them when they jumped on our legs. I did the Kappo treatment on July 28 smoke bombs and bombs, 6 hours in the whole house, however, since then I see one or two a day and yesterday 3 in the crumbs picked up with a broom. I redid the bomb blocked all night with open cupboards in the room concerned. Why haven't they died, how to get rid of them, where are the larvae? is there a nest? how to deal with animals that have not been in the house since. What do you recommend ? I despair of succeeding, and yet I do the housework very often. I also don't like putting all those insecticides on, I'm afraid the kids will breathe it in and my turtle tank might suffer, I also have caged birds, can they get any? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
A : Why didn't they die? Smoke bombs do not kill the eggs and hatching can be very rapid (heat+humidity). How to get rid of it? All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Where are the larvae? is there a nest? : Wherever your pets have gone, since the eggs fall from their coats and mainly in the grooves of the floors (hence the name floor fleas). They can remain active for several months or more! How to treat animals? We have a wide range of products on our site, but mainly in preventive treatment. Very effective and safe for animals.

Q : I have 40 dogs to treat against fleas and was thinking of making a bath by mixing Penntybio insecticide with water (2%). What kind of product to use?
A : For fleas or ticks, we recommend a treatment with a concentration of 5%. The 1.5% concentration can only be used for very small insects such as mites, red spiders, etc. If the product is not sufficiently concentrated, it will not be effective. In bath you can try a 1% concentration but I'm not sure if it will work on the eggs.

Q : My basement is infected with fleas, I have tried everything: smoke bombs, fooger, raspberry vinegar, white vinegar and there are still some. The floor is not smooth and I fear that the products I put on will be absorbed by the floor; what can we do without removing the things we have stored?
A : Smoke bombs are generally quite effective at least on adults (it won't kill the eggs) provided they are of good quality and the room is completely sealed. Several treatments with 4J diluted to 5% with a sprayer should allow you to overcome it. Treat every 2 to 3 days, so as to gradually eliminate outbreaks.

Q : Is natural vanilla a flea repellent?
A : Maybe, but we have no information on this property of vanilla.

Q : Good evening I can't get rid of parquet fleas, moreover they jump on my children. Tell me what product should I use? I'm also in front of my French window; I have already bought bombs that you put on the floor and have to leave the room. Thank you for your reply.
A : We have a special flea and floor flea page. For the treatment, you can use the pure 4d insecticide that you will dilute at 5% in water.

Q : My house is full of fleas, especially the floors. What product should I take to get rid of it knowing that I have children and pets, thank you.
A : We have a case of floor fleas which should give you a lot of answers. Our 4J Insecticide can be used with children and pets without concern. Take them out of the treated rooms for a few hours to carry out the treatment and ventilate well.

Q : What insecticides should I take to kill fleas in a house?
A : Our 4J all insect insecticide diluted at 5%

Q : We have four cats and a dog and are currently overrun with fleas. Do you have a natural solution to get us out of it?
A :  You have to start by treating your animals if you haven't already done so, in order to eliminate the source. After having treated your animals, it will be necessary to treat the places where they sleep, baskets, carpets, .. (and perhaps your whole house, everything depends on the invasion) with an insecticide; Our 4J liquid insecticide will get you out of it. Do not hesitate to consult our file on the floor flea. You will find many answers there.

Q : I came across your site by chance. I'm going to order but first could you help me? I am a nurse's aide and I get bitten by fleas from my patients' cats at mid-calf height and feet (even the doctors did not know about these pimples) I have already tried quite a few products; the last one I use is white vinegar mixed with an insecticide that I put on my feet and legs I know it's not good for my skin but I don't know what to do could you give me a solution Thank you.
A : As I assume you can't kill fleas on your patients, you have to protect yourself by using a repellent that you put on your legs. I don't see the point of the product you are currently using, vinegar is good for soothing bites, but what is the insecticide for? On the site you have several products to soothe insect bites and repellent products but also an anti-insect skin spray that can also be used to protect yourself from bites.

Q : Hello, I live in an apartment and I have 7 cats that I go out sometimes and have fleas. I was told that essential oils on the cat are to be avoided, what do you think? and what product do you recommend for cats and housing?
A : It is correct that it is not recommended to use essential oils on cats. In general, essential oils alone are rarely effective on fleas, at least curatively. We have several products for cats including the collar and the zero flea. These products are to be used as a preventive measure with the risk of allergic reactions on certain cats (geraniol), just like all commercial anti-flea products.

Q : How to clean the floors if there are fleas?
A : All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to the floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : I have just discovered your range of products and I am very interested. Indeed, I suffered an invasion of fleas in my house and I can't get rid of them. I have a small child and an infant so I would like to be sure this is safe. I would also like to know how to use the product, because I can't spray on every flea, is there some kind of diffuser that you leave on and that kills all the beasts in a room. Thank you in advance for your response.
A : All of our insecticides are completely safe for children. Normally, in the event of a flea infestation, it is necessary to carry out a rigorous treatment of all the infested areas (floors, baseboards, cupboards, etc.) in order to destroy the fleas but also the eggs. It is best to use our 4J insecticide diluted 5% with water in a garden sprayer.

Q : Can the insecticide be sprayed in the animal's bedding? Is it effective on larvae, nymphs, eggs or just adult fleas?
A : Our insecticide can be sprayed on all surfaces. It is effective on the whole cycle of insects, from egg to adult.

Q : There are fleas in my daughter's apartment (50m²) due to the presence of her ferret. How to make the whole apartment "disinfected" Thank you for your help.
A : I think you have to start by treating the animal. Then, treat with 4J insecticide the place where the animal sleeps (basket, carpet, etc.). Normally, animal fleas do not go on humans (except cat fleas). If there really is an infestation, you will need to use a garden-type sprayer and treat the entire apartment.

Q : I would like to know what effective product you have against fleas on carpets and rugs
A : Our insecticide is effective on fleas (eggs, adults) but also on mites. The amount of product to use will depend on the thickness of the carpet. A few hours after the treatment, vacuum the dead insects.

Q : Do you have a radical product against microscopic floor fleas?
A : Yes, our "all insects 4J diluted 5%" insecticide will be perfect for getting rid of these unwanted little creatures. If you have a small area, a spray bottle may be sufficient. On the other hand, for large areas, the treatment will be much more effective and simpler with a garden-type pressure sprayer. A systematic treatment will be necessary, so don't forget the nooks, baseboards etc...

Q : How to get rid of fleas in an apartment. These fleas were brought by a dog who was full of them. For the moment I sprayed the rooms with a flea spray bought in a pharmacy, then washed the floors with bleach, at night I opened the windows because I was told that the cold kills fleas unfortunately since they have been in my apartment they have bitten me and I have a lot of plaques on my body: legs, arms, back, hands, feet. Here, if you could answer me as soon as possible that would suit me and I would feel better about myself. Thanks in advance.
A : It's not easy, especially if your floor is parquet or if you have skirting boards, they will settle in all the gaps or nooks they will encounter! A smoke bomb hit in a room is not enough. It is necessary to make a surface treatment of all places where they can hide, treat your mattress, carpets, etc. Our 4J insecticide will be perfect for this type of insect. A spray bottle is not enough when you want to treat large areas, so you can use a garden type pressure sprayer. Cold kills fleas. As for bleach, I'm not sure it can kill them!

Q : Flea problem: need information for effective treatment on flea infestation for total destruction of fleas and their eggs. area to be treated a basement of 200m2 for urgent intervention.
A : You can use our 4J insecticide. This product should be sprayed with a garden-type pressure sprayer over the entire surface of your room and mainly in the corners (baseboards, parquet joints, cracks, etc.). On the other hand, do not forget to treat your domestic animals if you have some with an effective veterinary product. If the application of the insecticide is well done, it is radical.

Q : Following the ban on the very toxic fipronil, I am looking for a biological insecticide for cats. Does it exist?
A : We have several cat treatment products that you will find on our site. They are not insecticides but repellents. They are totally devoid of toxicity on humans and domestic animals.

Q : How to get rid of fleas?
A : The solution is simple but can be a little time consuming depending on the degree of invasion and the surface to be treated. It is necessary to treat the whole of the room or rooms where the fleas are and mainly all the nooks and crannies where they live, floors, baseboards, wash the sheets treat the mattresses, possibly cupboards and cupboards. For this, you must use a garden type pressure sprayer that you adjust quite fine, but not a mist. (Droplets =100 to 200 microns, Diffusion pressure=1.6 bar). We use approximately 1l of diluted insecticide / 10 m2 of treated surface. As the insecticide kills eggs, larvae and insects, if the treatment is done well, you should be cleared.

Q : Our cats regularly sleep in bedding and for the past two weeks we have been bitten every night by fleas. We have tested several products but to no avail. We don't see these fleas and therefore don't even know where to spray exactly. What is the solution?
A : Fleas usually settle between floorboards or behind baseboards. It is then easy for them to bite their legs when you enter certain rooms. In any case, our insecticide is effective on all insects. I think it will be necessary to treat the cats with a veterinary product, then their baskets and bedding, but also wash your sheets and blankets and treat the box spring mattress with our 4J insecticide diluted to 5%. In the case of floor flea, it will also be necessary to treat the parquet and the baseboards. You will have all the information on our floor fleas page. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

Q : Is moth ball good for keeping fleas away?
A : No, sorry, it won't work.

Q : What do you think of those who say not to use products containing essential oils for a cat?
A : That's right, cats lack a major enzyme (glucuronyl transferase) which allows them to break down certain molecules in order to make them soluble, which then allows them to evacuate them from their body through their urine. Due to the absence of this molecule, the essential oils cannot be degraded and will accumulate in his liver. This accumulation in the long run can lead to the death of the animal.

Q : What is the composition of anti-flea pipettes for cats ?
A : The active molecule is geraniol

Q : I am interested in your zero cat flea product. On the other hand, the description is not detailed enough on your site. It is said to be based on essential oil extracts. I know they can be dangerous for cats. Are these hydrosols rather?
A : The instructions for the conditioner are very vague, however the manufacturer of the product assured us that it was large molecule geraniol which does not penetrate the skin.

Q : I would like to know if the flea and tick repellent collar for dogs that you sell is effective against mosquitoes? I live in the south of France, we have many cases of leishmaniasis and I am worried about my dog.
A : Manufacturer testing is flea and tick. It also specifies "and biting insects" without further precision, which is normal, it is impossible to verify the effectiveness of the product on all biting insects! I therefore cannot assure you that this collar is repellent to all mosquitoes

Q : Before I order the zero fleas from you, I would like to know the shelf life of the product once opened, please.
R : At least 1 year, under normal storage conditions.

Q : Regarding the packaging of the “Margosa” 30 ml, could you please tell me if it is a bottle of 30 ml or 30 pipettes of 1 ml? If it is indeed a 30 ml bottle as I think, is there a dosing system in order to be able to distribute 1 ml on the animal?
A :  It is indeed a single pipette, containing 30 ml of margosa. Just press it to squeeze out the liquid. Pour the desired dose directly on the skin of the animal, on the back, behind the head. Spread your pet's hair as much as possible in order to put the product in contact with the skin. In the case of an animal over 8 kg, distribute the dose in two places: behind the head and in the middle of the back. For an animal weighing more than 15 kg, distribute the dose this time in three points: behind the head, in the middle of the back and at the bottom of the back. If you have trouble estimating the dose you apply, you can buy a 1 ml pipette in parallel.

Q : I am a horse breeder in the Allier and I am very interested in the use of Neem oil as an insecticide to ward off the flat flies that infest our horses. Can you tell me at what concentration to use this oil, by applying it directly to the affected areas.
A :  Regarding neem oil, I cannot answer you, it will depend on its quality and especially on its concentration of azadirachtin. On the other hand, we market an insect repellent perfectly suited for horses: ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel. A formula combining 3 recognized active ingredients (Eucalyptus citriodora, vegetable pyrethrum and geraniol), extremely effective in keeping biting insects at bay.

Q : Hello, I am a sheep breeder in Lozère and my sheepfold which is 600m² as well as the barn which is 200m² are invaded by fleas. I treat regularly with dympigal but I can't eradicate them. I am looking for a product that destroys eggs.
A : Our 4J insecticide based on pyrethrum and potassium soap destroys fleas, larvae, eggs. Eggs can only be destroyed by "mechanical" and non-neurotoxic means. In our case, it is black soap. To eradicate fleas, it is above all necessary that the carrier animals, often cats, are treated correctly otherwise the possibility is left for living fleas to continue to reproduce!

Q : I received the Cani science necklaces; I don't understand the explanations. A video seems to be necessary?
A : You are the first person to tell us about the difficulty of putting on this collar unless your collar has a problem, just pass the strap through the loop and if it is too long, we cut the excess with scissors. Do not hesitate to contact us if these explanations are not sufficient.

Q : I am looking for a product allowing me to preventively treat my habitat against fleas because I have two cats. I am looking for the most natural (and most economical possible) solution. What would you advise me? >Note: I already use Hery Zero flea pipettes, so it would be a supplement.
A : If taking the normal flea cycle, one treatment every 2-3 weeks is sufficient. On the other hand, if your cat begins to scratch or if you see fleas, it will be necessary to intervene very quickly.

Q : We would like to use one of your products to treat against the BOOPHILUS MICROPLUS tick our herd in Limousin (about a hundred cows/calves/bulls) certified ORGANIC. Livestock farming in New Caledonia is very extensive (no buildings, herds only eat grass). The tick in New Caledonia has become resistant to 3 chemical molecules.
A :  For the treatment of animals against ticks, we recommend our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray. This product has been developed for horses, donkeys, ponies, cows, sheep..

Q : I have just read very attentively your pages concerning the flea of ​​the cat and the parquet floor. For the past few weeks I have been finding fleas in my house. We are little stung, we do not "see" fleas every day... But still! We already used a fogger more than 3 weeks ago and I would like to avoid having to reuse one. We have a baby (1 month) and a 2 year old, so I prefer the "natural" methods. I regularly spray the house with water mixed with essential oils of mint, lavender, etc. Obviously, that's not enough. Also, I'm thinking of testing your insecticide. We have tomettes and parquet floors in the house. If I apply 4J in the bedrooms (parquet), especially the children's bedroom, should I wash on the floor afterwards? Or after what time? They are at an age (or will reach an age) where they play on the floor, put everything in their mouths...etc. And I fear for their health! How many hours until the kids can come home?
A :  Before any treatment, your pet must be thoroughly treated with a veterinary "insecticide". Avoid the Fro*tli*e if you have a cat we have a lot of inefficiency feedback. When the animal is fully protected and no longer a carrier, treatment can then be considered. Regarding the fogger, it pollutes your environment and in any case will not destroy the eggs. Regularly spray essential oils of mint, lavender, etc. it must smell very good but it is totally ineffective on insects. It destroys bacteria! If you use a 5% concentration with the 4J, it is not necessary to wash on the floor; let dry with the current heat it goes very quickly. Our insecticide contains pyrethrum, soap, essential oils, so it is completely safe in a home; now it is obvious when you treat, that it is better to avoid objects which risk being licked (just like a cleaning product for washing).

Q : Following your answer, I ordered the insecticide and I sprayed with it, all the parquet, all the baseboards, the stairs, etc. I sprayed Ecodoo the sofas and bedding. And of course I washed the sheets and covers. The cats had been treated the day before. Since spring, I treat them every 2 or 3 weeks. The fleas came to us through a third party. In short. Following the home treatment, we went 3 days without seeing any fleas. We left for 10 days. On our return, 3 days without fleas. Then on the 4th day I found 1 flea on my foot when I was on the couch. We left again the next day. It's been over a week already. I'm anxious for the return: can this presage an invasion? In your opinion, what is better to do? Redo a full treatment? Reprocess only the room (wooden baseboard tile and sofa)? Treat only the couch? Or something else?
A : Before any treatment of your interiors, your pet must be thoroughly treated with a veterinary "insecticide". Avoid the Fro*tli*e if you have a cat. We have a lot of inefficiency feedback! When the animal is fully protected and no longer a carrier, we can consider treating the area. If your cat is perfectly protected and you haven't seen a flea for a week, it's because hidden larvae have just turned into fleas; between the egg and the flea it takes 10 days. If there are eggs or larvae, try to find the spaces where they are hiding and treat accordingly with our insecticide.

Q : First of all, congratulations for your site which is full of information, which is very practical. Despite all my reading, I still have a few questions, I think you can enlighten me because you seem to have conducted a lot of research. We have a cat and my questions are related to her. You say that pyrethroids are dangerous for cats, this is the case even if they come from natural pyrethrum? So is 4J dangerous for cats? Of course, I close the room I'm treating and ventilate a lot before letting our cat in. Can you give me the deadlines to respect because we are invaded by fleas and the Ecodoo spray does not seem to be enough? I want to eradicate them but not harm our cat. I ordered 4J product and I don't want to make any mistakes. On the other hand, essential oils are deadly for cats, however, in natural products, there are some (geraniol, margosa, linalool...). Are these products really safe for cats? I dare not buy the Adios spray because it is noted that there is lavender and tea tree essential oil. Likewise for diatomaceous earth, it is noted not to swallow. However, a cat licks itself as soon as a new product is put on it. It is also noted not to put it in contact with the skin, but it is spread on the skin of the cat.
A : Pyrethrum can be dangerous to a cat, like most products if you apply it to them. The product being absorbed when it is licked. The 4j is a surface treatment insecticide unlike the Ecodoo which is sprayed into the air, so there is no delay, just open the window when treating. Adios Double Action spray is not made for cats. Moreover, on the product sheet, we indicate it since we recommend the Penntybio dry shampoo. Diatomaceous earth is not dangerous if taken in small quantities since it is also sold as a feed supplement for livestock. In any case, for a cat, it will be necessary to pass after the application of the product its hair with a fine comb (lice comb) to remove the dead fleas and eliminate part of the soil.

Q : Can we use the 4d insecticide on pets?
A : In theory yes, since pyrethrum is very often used on animals but in low concentrations < 0.5%. In practice no, since it is an insecticide approved for building treatments, and not for veterinary use.

Q : Having just discovered fleas in a house that my son has just bought, I discovered your site. Can you help us treat these fleas with your advice and organic products, his companion being 3 and a half months pregnant? Can we buy online or are your products sold in organic stores?
A : No problem with our products. All our products and treatment information are available in our special file "floor flea". Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions after reading the file. Product can only be ordered online in our store. We do not distribute to brands or specialized stores.

Q : Are the Penn'Ty Bio Margosa extract pipettes in 30ml usable for several applications? Once opened, do they recap so as to keep the product useful?
A : Yes, can be used multiple times. It has a small cap to close it. Remember to keep away from light and preferably in a cool place (avoid the refrigerator).

Q : I have 6 llamas and they have lots of flies around their eyes and body; I would like to know if your product can be applied to this kind of animals; the composition of the product is plant-based, tell yourself, is the total composition of the product indicated on the bottle, and is it really natural without risk of inhalation by the treated animal and the human and other animal environment ?
A : You don't mention the product but I think you are talking about our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel. This product can be used on most animals. No problem for use on a llama. Its Safety Data Sheet, available on our site, indicates no risk and danger phrases for use in humans, animals or nature. As mentioned, this product only repels biting and sucking insects (flat flies, horseflies, ticks, etc.).
Q : How to deal with a heavily flea-infested outdoor environment...dry earthy ground...
A : You need a garden type sprayer, 5 liters of water in which you incorporate a 250ml bottle of 4J concentrate. Which gives you 5% focus. That's enough to cure the flea. Then, you water the entire infested surface (50m²). Any affected fleas will die but no afterglow. Do the treatment during the cooler hours and exposed to the sun to limit the degradation of pyrethrum by UV rays. Attention, also, if this type of treatment will kill a good part of the fleas, it will not spare the other insects of your garden, like the auxiliaries.

Q : Since January we have had fleas coming and going. We treat with fogger, turpentine and the cat is also treated. Unfortunately, these little buggers love the raw parquet on our floor (we don't see any downstairs), especially in our bedroom. The last time (April) they left for good after treating our floors with turpentine. But last week we left for three days and on our return with the heat: INVADED with fleas, a dozen on each leg when we set foot in our room. We foggered the whole house, we vacuumed, we put turpentine several times, they are much less numerous but there are always some! We don't know what to do anymore... > It seems that you have the miracle product to get rid of it! I'm a taker because the next step is to call on a pest control specialist, I can't take it anymore!
A : If your animal is perfectly treated and no longer has fleas, we invite you to read our file dedicated to this insect. We explain the treatment protocol with the most appropriate products. Be careful when using the fogger. It's good for adult fleas, but totally ineffective on eggs! You absolutely must treat in parallel with a contact insecticide like our 4J.

Q : On the meadows, behind the house, we are invaded by small black bugs that sting and leave red halos. 3 years ago, I treated with your product: 4J PENN'TY bio, it was effective, I have the same problem again and I treated the same way but with a 250ML bottle, it rest of the critters and after your answer I recommend the product, I point out that the critters jump like fleas.
A : Regarding jumping "critters", it could well be fleas. This is very common in hot weather. These fleas can be deposited by many mammals, cats of course, but also others, such as hedgehogs

Q : I wanted to know what I can do because my cat is allergic to dust mite droppings. He sleeps on a fleece blanket. I would like to be able to eradicate them, but without intoxicating my cat who is also asthmatic (I think it must be linked).
A : Cats don't really like bug spray. I would rather recommend a product based on Neem which acts less quickly but which lasts longer and which does not contain neurotoxic. See for example our ARIES Anti-Mite Spray.

Q : I bought you some Margosa insect repellent for my cat. I can't find any information telling me how often I should put it on him. Can you tell me where to find this information?
A :  For maximum protection, it will be necessary to reapply a dose of repellent each time the animal has been heavily wet (rain, bath) or at least once every 3 weeks.

Q : Could you advise me for a product in your extensive range to treat floor fleas. We have a cat, who also has fleas..... My daughter is being bitten at the moment, she is full of itchy pimples, yet it is episodic (the 2nd time this has happened)! I don't think it's the cat fleas..... Floor flea that is rampant with the heat that has returned...
A : Cat fleas that are in floor crevices are very common. Rule n°1: Treat your cat with a veterinary insecticide such as Stro*gho*d. As long as your cat has fleas, there is no solution! See also our special file "floor flea". You will find there many answers as well as the appropriate products for the treatment of fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

Q : A fan of aromatherapy, I am nevertheless a little afraid to use geraniol pipettes on my cats. You offer a special formula for cats, but the presence of essential oil, however weak it may be, is not likely to be harmful for them in the long run? It is true that I am at an impasse between systemic chemical pipettes, which are necessarily harmful, and those with geraniol, what should I choose for kitties who go out in the garden all year round and go frolicking in the forest in the summer...?
A : We had problems a few years ago with geraniol pipettes on cats. Mainly allergic reactions resulting in redness and hair loss. We don't have any problems now, but they are likely to be less concentrated. You can try the margosa pipettes that we market which have no essential oils left at all and the margosa does not cause any reaction problems. In case of fleas on a cat, what works well is diatomaceous earth or our dry shampoo composed of talc and margosa.

Q : Thank you for confirming (urgent response) that the product: 4J insecticide concentrate to dilute, will not damage my varnished floors. I have been battling parquet fleas for several months and see no end to it. I therefore intend to spray this product in several rooms whose parquet floor has just been sanded/treated/varnished but where there remains, depending on the location, ''still life underneath''. And what is the appropriate aerosol to treat under baseboards that are off the ground? Cordially
A : 4J insecticide contains potassium soap to increase its effectiveness on larvae (asphyxiating effect). When you prepare your dilution of pure product, if you use too high a dosage, there is a risk that a small greasy film will remain on the surfaces you have treated. For effective flea control, a 5% dilution is sufficient. With this dilution, you have almost no residual traces of potassium soap. Washing the floors is enough to remove this thin film. It remains soap, so it is perfectly washable with water. No problem with a floor that has been varnished. This layer is made to protect the floor. Use a damp mop and quickly dry behind with a very dry cloth.
Fleas and their larvae usually lodge in the grooves of the floor. At the bottom of the interstices, they find a refuge under the dust allowing them to be sheltered from the light. Target your treatment primarily on the floor grooves. A good vacuuming of the floors and grooves before the insecticide treatment will release as much dust as possible and increase the effectiveness of the contact insecticide. It is a question of not filling the grooves with product, which would soak the unvarnished parts of the parquet. The spray nozzle setting should be between full spray and fine mist. An intermediate setting to cover the fleas, their eggs and their larvae, without drowning them.

Regarding the most appropriate product to treat less accessible places such as the back of skirting boards, I recommenda the Pistal Aries All Insects insecticide.The composition is almost the same as 4J (pyrethrum + paraffin instead of potassium soap). The advantage of this product is that it comes in the form of an aerosol. The product is therefore expelled further allowing to reach corners that are more difficult to access.

Q : I ordered some products from you to treat a flea infestation. There seem to be plenty of mice under the house, and in the house. Do you know if this could be the cause of the flea infestation? Some are reappearing in the house and we are vigilant.
A : Hello. Indeed, a mouse can carry fleas but also other parasites such as lice, scabies or ringworm. Very often, they transmit them to a domestic animal which itself spreads them in the dwelling. If the mice are visible from time to time, it is therefore not impossible that they are the source of the infestation you are facing.