Floor flea: cat or dog flea... jumping champion ! !
Have you seen fleas in your home recently? They are starting to invade your home and you don't know where to start? A floor flea infestation can get complicated if you don't act quickly. Discover in this file a set of answers and products that will allow you to fight naturally against this invasive insect.
(identity, mode of feeding, reproduction, ...)
(methodology of action, natural insecticides, ...)
Latin name: Ctenocephalides felis
Size: 1 to 8 mm
Location: all habitats
Period: all year round
General information on the flea
Its first description dates from the years 1400 BC! The 2000 known species belong to the order Siphonaptera.
The flea, measuring a few millimeters long, can be considered, thanks to its robust hind legs, as the champion of the jump both in length (40 cm) and in height (20 cm).
Its legs, with the presence of thorns grouped in series, allow it to cling firmly to its host.
Its body, compressed on each side, allows it to move easily between the hairs or the fur of its host. Not liking the light, it lives mainly deep in the fur.
It is an ectoparasite (it lives on the body surface of a living being), which sucks the blood of mammals or birds.
It likes temperatures between 18 and 27°C and a humidity level of around 70%.
The ideal conditions for its development are therefore rather in hot and humid periods such as spring or autumn.
The flea dies when you expose it for an hour to a temperature > 39°C.
The adult flea can live for 6 to 12 months and the larva can survive up to 2 months without food.
Its oral apparatus is made up of 3 stylets: the middle one, hollow, which allows the aspiration of blood, while the other 2 allow the injection of saliva (anti-coagulant).
The irritation is caused by the reaction of the host's immune system to substances present in the flea's salivary secretions.
The flea needs a host
The human flea (Pulex irritans) has fortunately become extremely rare in our country.
It also infests pigs, foxes, badgers and hedgehogs.
It can, in certain rare countries, with the rat flea (Xenopsylla chaeopsis), transmit the bubonic plague bacillus.
Dog and cat fleas can also transmit an intestinal parasite, Dipylidium caninum. It is therefore advisable to deworm your animal regularly in addition to the fight against fleas.
The dog flea, Ctenocephalides canis, infects dogs and cats.
But the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis, is the most common: it infests of course cats, but also many European mammals such as dogs... and possibly humans if they pass by!
Birds, wild or domestic, are regular victims of fleas (infested nests). Examples include Ceratophyllus gallinae, the scourge of chicken coops, and Dasypsyllus gallinulae, common among small birds.
Usually, the flea therefore prefers to live on animals such as cats or dogs, but in the absence of its favorite animal, it can jump on humans.
This situation arises, for example, if the pet is absent from the home for some time or in the event of a major infestation..
How does the flea locate its host to feed ?
Fleas locate their hosts thanks to a very specialized recognition system, called chemoreceptors, located on the antennae. These chemoreceptors are sensitive to different parameters:
- Perception of heat
- Infrared radiation
- Day/night vision
- Chemo-olfactory (perception of specific molecules and smells)
Specific data (osmolarity, salinity, chemical composition) confirm to “biting suckers” such as fleas that they are indeed sucking blood and that they can therefore feed themselves. The accuracy of sensory perception is related to the number of chemoreceptors. The flea that lives close to its host has few antenna receptors (less than 50, compared to a mosquito or a fly which can have up to 5000). These also serve the needs of sexuality.
Pet = fleas, so be careful !
- If the animal scratches abnormally and loses its hair,
- If combing sessions reveal an increase in the flea population,
- If their excrement, a fine black dust on the skin, is visible and abundant when the hair is parted,
- If fleas attack more and more people living in the house,
- If your cat or dog regularly moves outside the house during favorable periods (heat, humidity).
What you need to know about the flea
There are various types of fleas, all of which come from animals (cats, dogs, birds, rats, etc.). The cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis) is the most common species in our homes. Your pet is certainly carrying fleas without you realizing it.
The flea is a wingless insect (wingless), which lives on a host (animal, man), and feeds on its blood. After sucking blood, the flea irritates the skin leaving a red spot with a dark red dot in the center. It mainly parasitizes cats and dogs. But in the absence of its favorite hosts, it easily accommodates other hosts, you for example. It is necessary to be wary of it because it is a vector of disease (typhus, tapeworm, allergies, ...) In rabbits, for example, it is she who transmits myxomatosis.
Why is it called "floor flea" ?
The flea lays its eggs on its host. However, eggs can easily detach from the fur of a cat or a dog and fall into the places visited by the pet: between the slats of a parquet floor, in the carpet, in its basket, on your sofa. , ... If the conditions are favorable, there may be a sudden and massive outbreak of "parquet fleas".
Under favorable conditions (heat + humidity), a flea larva reaches the adult stage in 2 to 3 weeks. Under bad conditions (absence of host, low temperatures), the cycle can last up to 6 months.
Flea populations generally peak in late summer, when the temperature and humidity necessary for adult emergence are optimal.
A single female lays an average of 200 eggs throughout her life. This means that adult fleas represent only 1% of the total flea population (99% are in the form of eggs or larvae). It is therefore not surprising that after a few days of absence from your home, you find a "carpet" of fleas jumping on your parquet or carpet.
Flea development cycles
The flea has four development cycles: egg, larva, pupa and adult.
The length of the life cycle depends on the species, temperature, humidity and access to food.
If all the favorable conditions are met, a flea reaches the adult stage in two to three weeks. Otherwise, its development may take several months.
After each blood meal, the female flea lays four to eight round eggs, measuring about 0.5 mm, with a smooth shell, whitish in color and sticky in texture. The eggs laid on the animal do not stay there and fall when it scratches. The places often frequented by the dog (or the cat) are very rich in eggs! Under optimal conditions, the female can lay up to 25 eggs in 1 day. She will lay about 800 during her lifetime.
The larval stage
After 2 to 12 days, a larva is born (vermiform, white and hairy 1 to 5 mm long), where the egg has fallen. This larva is mobile. As she fears the light, she takes refuge in preferably dark places. It is also sensitive to variations in humidity and temperature. The larval state lasts from 1 to 3 weeks, if the conditions are favorable (18° to 27° and 70% relative humidity). The larvae is detricolous, which means that it feeds on the excrement of adult fleas and the remains of animal faeces. The larvae can survive up to two hundred days in adverse conditions and move distances of up to 30 cm per minute. The larva wraps itself around the nearest object, often the fibers of a carpet, which saves it from falling victim to the vacuum cleaner. The larva then weaves a cocoon and pupates.
The nymph stage
During the third stage of development, the larva becomes covered with dust, fibers, grains of sand, and organic debris. Under this covering, she weaves a cocoon with the silk provided by her labial glands. In its cocoon, the larva is protected from all external aggressions: heat, desiccation, etc. It can thus survive for several months without feeding. Normally, the nymph evolves in 1 to 2 weeks but this state can last up to 1 year if the conditions are unfavorable. As soon as the chrysalis detects the presence of a host (animal or human) by vibrations, heat or a higher concentration of carbon dioxide (which occurs during the passage of a cat, a dog, etc. . or a man), it comes out of its cocoon and jumps on this host to take a blood meal. The flea grows rapidly taking on a lighter reddish-brown color. So you can very quickly be invaded by the so-called floor flea. This phenomenon is very common after a few weeks of absence (holidays) or in holiday homes.
The adult stage
See above "General on the flea".
- Try to prohibit your pet from all places where it will be difficult to eliminate fleas (bed, sofa, attic, etc.).
- Regularly wash or treat the place where your pet sleeps and mainly the fabrics or blankets.
- Regularly vacuum all rooms or surfaces where your pet has passed or slept. Don't forget the corners and the underside of furniture and rugs. Insist well on the carpets, cushions, carpets and all the surfaces containing fibers, the larvae clinging around these. Avoid using the brush which tends to disperse the eggs.
- In the event of an infestation, do not hesitate to immediately dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag: burn it or, after wrapping it in plastic, put it in the freezer.
As a cure: treat the floor flea
If foggers (foggers creating a mist of insecticide) or insecticide bombs can possibly destroy adult fleas, they will not destroy eggs.
Indeed, the neurotoxins act neither on the eggs nor on the well-protected larvae in their cocoons. To destroy the eggs and larvae, you need a "mechanical action" product such as paraffin oil (this is the case of the All Insects Pistal product) or potassium soap (the case of our 4J insecticide). The egg or larva must also be physically in contact with the product.
Depending on the degree of infestation, various products are available to you.
1.The first thing to do is to treat your animal. As long as he carries fleas, you will continue to have them in your home. Here are the tips we can give you:
- Wash it regularly with a special anti-parasite shampoo.
- Comb (use a fine-toothed comb) your animal regularly, especially the nape of the neck and around the tail, after untangling the coat with a brush.
- Preventive or curative for the treatment of your animals, you will find on our site many effective and natural products in our section "Protection of pets". These products are usually used at the beginning of the risk season, but for some animals that live permanently in heated rooms, it is sometimes necessary to treat throughout the year.
2. Then, treat its environment with our 4J insecticide diluted to 5% : Anything can go through it: basket, fabrics, blankets, niche, ... This is an important precaution, because fleas adults lay eggs on their host, which can fall and therefore hatch, in places where the animal lies down.
3. On any type of soil, if you are heavily overgrown (hundreds of fleas jumping everywhere), spray all surfaces with our ready-tu-use 5% diluted 4J insecticide. If you are starting to have large areas to treat, prefer the concentred 4J insecticide (same product but in its concentrated form). You will do the dilution: 5% pure product + 95% water.
For large areas of treatment, a garden-type sprayer will be more efficient and practical than a vaporizer. Any fleas affected by the insecticide should die immediately. Do not forget the corners or the underside of the furniture.
After this treatment, vacuum in order to eliminate the corpses by insisting well on the carpets, cushions, carpet and all the surfaces comprising fibers, the larvae clinging around these. We advise you to put on a pair of boots to perform this operation because it is likely that fleas will jump on your legs!
Note: to make 5 liters of insecticide with a 5% concentration, you need 250ml of 4J concentrate. This will allow you to treat approximately 50m². To treat 100m², provide a 500ml bottle. This insecticide also exists in 125ml (25m²) and 1 liter (200m²).
4. The All Insects Aries aerosol being under pressure, it will be ideal for reaching more difficult spaces to which you would not have access with a sprayer or a vaporizer. Freezing insecticide will also work well as a direct spray on fleas.
5. Then treat fragile fabrics and coverings with our Ecodoo insecticide spray (carpets, rugs, couch, sofa, armchair, cushions, etc.).
6. On slatted floors (with grooves) or other identical surfaces, a treatment with 4J insecticide diluted to 5% is also recommended. Flea larvae fleeing light and drought, they take refuge in small nooks such as parquet cracks (hence their name), but also behind and under furniture, under the edges of carpets, along baseboards, in heating and ventilation ducts and in all places where the ground is shaded and damp.
7. For wooden floors, it is really important to treat the grooves well, which usually contain dust. You can use a garden-type sprayer or a sprayer set to "jet" so that the whole of this groove is well impregnated with insecticide. Eggs and larvae must be coated with product for it to work.
Do not sweep but rather vacuum, in order to avoid the dispersion of eggs to the four corners of your house.
8. To be sure to put the odds on your side, you can act by fumigation once the 4J insecticide treatment has been carried out. For this, the Habitat fogger will be perfect. It is an automatic insecticide diffuser based on active ingredients of plant origin (pyrethrum + geraniol), intended for basic treatment of the habitat. Very volatile, the solution is deposited in the smallest recesses where parasites and insects lodge. Immediate and prolonged action, up to 4 months. 3 different formats exist: 75 ml for a treatment of less than 15 m², 150 ml, for a treatment of less than 30 m². Finally, 250 ml, for a treatment larger than 30 m².
The products you need against fleas
Step 1 - I make sure my pet is flea-free
Before you even start treating your rooms, protect your pet by removing all fleas. If you do not go through this step, there will inevitably remain fleas jumping from its coat to your armchairs or floors. Several repellent products can help you with this. In the form of a spray lotion, dry shampoo foam or powder or simply shampoo to wash. Beware, these products are sold as insect repellent. That is to say that they do not destroy the insect. Their function is to expel them from the animal thanks to powerful plant active ingredients. If the infestation is too large and the fleas won't go away, opt for a veterinary product.
Step 2 - I tackle the surface treatment of my home
Once your pet is flea free (and this is often the key to success), you can treat your parts with our insecticidal products below :
Step 3 - I protect my pet to prevent him from getting fleas again
Do not neglect this last step. It remains essential and needs to be renewed from time to time if you don't want the fleas to come back. For this, we offer you insect repellent collars, pipettes and sprays, either based on geraniol or based on Margosa extract. Finally, don't forget to relieve itching with our soothing and deodorizing lotion STOP Gratte based on natural plant extracts.
According to the feedback from our customers who have followed this procedure, you can expect the complete disappearance of fleas in 1 or 2 treatments (the following exchange of mail is interesting because it highlights a few points) :
Our client: I wanted to inform you of my delight (hope it lasts!) regarding the anti-flea treatment that I carried out in my house. In addition to the ease of use and the very pleasant smell that spreads, I haven't seen any fleas since yesterday. I've been dragging them for 2 years, it's a real relief! I will follow your advice and renew the treatment within a fortnight.
Penn'ty Bio: After a treatment, it is necessary to vacuum in order to eliminate the larvae which were not killed. The carrier animal must either be treated correctly (see with your veterinarian or our products to treat dogs and dogs), or not return.
Our client: I treated for the first time the small outbuilding (30 m²) which was the most affected and the stone shelters around the garden with your insecticide diluted to 5%. A few days later, there were still fleas but much fewer and smaller. I did a 2nd treatment a little less concentrated (3%) to save money. A week later, even fewer fleas and still small ones. I feel like it's new outbreaks every time and the product is less effective on the eggs. I have enough product left to prepare 1 or 2 litres. What do you think and what do you recommend?
Penn'ty Bio: There's something I'm missing. The flea cycle is as follows: after each blood meal, female fleas lay 4 to 8 eggs. The egg hatches after a few days and a larva emerges. The larva is not a parasite. It goes through 3 stages during which it feeds on organic debris, larval remains and dried blood found in the excretions of adult fleas. It then covers itself with dust, fibres, organic debris and under this covering, it weaves a cocoon which partly protects it from insecticides. Favorable conditions promote its emergence: vibrations, increased temperature and carbon dioxide concentrations. The emergence of adults is then immediate and the cycle can continue. This means that either the treatment is insufficient and the larvae are not destroyed (the larvae are only destroyed if they are physically wetted by the insecticide), or you have cats that regularly return to this addiction and bring back new fleas. A client who called me yesterday treated her cats and then her apartment with 4J insecticide diluted at 5%. Result: she no longer has a flea but the carrier cat no longer comes home! In addiction, after a treatment, vacuum in order to eliminate the larvae (dead or alive) and prevent the cats from returning to them. Normally, by doing so, your problem should have been solved at the 1st treatment! If the cats don't come in anymore but you can't vacuum it because the fleas can't breed anymore, you're going to get them eventually. If, on the other hand, you cannot prevent the cats from returning, then there are only 2 solutions: use a radical insecticide treatment (stamp that you will obtain from a veterinarian) or wait for the cold to stop the reproduction cycle of the cats. fleas !
Our client: I used the rest of the product to treat my addiction again and 2 days later I vacuumed as you advised. Subsequently, the dependency remained closed. I have since been back 2 times and haven't seen fleas jumping on my legs like before, so it seems to be resolved. I'm still going to wait for the winter cold before I open again and let the cat in.
Testimonial from a client on the use of our 4J flea insecticide :
I take the time to leave a comment here, because we thought we would never get out of the flea mess, and it was in desperation that we came to test this product. Here is the initial situation: our dog had had fleas for several months.
I first, from my convictions, tried several methods to scare them away, with essential oil of lavender and others, white vinegar, etc... It seemed to limit the damage this winter, but however, we were never completely rid of it. In spring-summer, of course, the fleas multiplied. Having "insect skin" ;), I got bitten a lot (not my companion :(), and our dog too I guess, judging by the increasing number we saw on his body, and the scratches.
After trying the Fr*ntl*ne C*mb* pipettes to no avail (our dog was always full of fleas, with no observed effect), we inquired further and learned that many flea species had developed resistance to the active molecule of Fr*ntl*ne. We then turned to Adv*c*te to treat our dog: immediate success! 2 months + later, still no flea on doggie :)! 1st win! But still fleas in the apartment (old parquet on the 3 main rooms), and therefore still bites for me! 2 sessions of foggers "Cl*m*nt Th*kan + later, always fleas! New search on the net: and there, we come across the penntybio site!
Let's get started: we put all our clothes in large garbage bags with diatomaceous earth sprinkled on them (I don't know if this step had an effect..), waiting to wash them and gradually reintegrate them in the apartment (and to switch to 60°C / in the dryer / iron the 1st "batches" reintegrated! :)).
Then, big cleaning: vacuum thoroughly everywhere, especially on the baseboards and on the parquet, then vacuum bag in the trash. We bought for less than 10€ a very simple garden vaporizer, with a handle to vaporize, in a large DIY store like C*st*. We filled this vape with the 4J concentrate diluted to 5%, as recommended by Penntybio. Rubber boots on + tropical mosquito repellent spray on: we are armed ;)! We used the Ecodoo spray sold on this same site for wooden furniture (especially those that were quite "porous" with lots of gaps!), fragile fabrics (leather...), non-washable backpacks/handbags, in short , anything that could have been used to transport or harbor fleas or their eggs/larvae... Then, after waiting 30 minutes for the vapors of the Ecodoo spray to dissipate (it's very strong, it's better to spray then leaving the room ;)), we came back with the garden spray filled with diluted 4J and sprayed meticulously, first all around the room (the baseboards), then all the floor, so that not a cm2 of floor had been in contact with the product, insisting on the cracks in the floor, which I totally flooded!
Then, with the rest of the spray product (the doses indicated by penntybio per m2 are exact, we didn't need less, that's for sure!) and the 4-day spray already diluted to 5% bought on this same site, we treated the last surfaces, car type (we especially insisted on the trunk, where the doggie stays during trips, and on the floors) and possibly the places at our parents' house where our dog had been likely to stay + for a long time (but we did it in a + light way, because no real infestation in our parents / families...).
Then, we let it all marinate for at least 24 hours, then we came back, we aired it out and started by mopping the floors, not too wet (so as not to remove too much product in the interstices), especially smooth ones (tiles, etc) which were indeed a little viscous or even slippery (when I tell you that we put a good dose of product everywhere ;)). Then aspi' (bag thrown again this time, and the following ones will not be thrown away but at least sprayed once with the ecodoo before placing them in the aspi'), and gradual return to normal, with the feeling to have almost prepared a move anyway (except for the kitchen cupboards which we hardly touched because doggie only passes through or eats, and tiled floor, so less risk of infestation)!
I think it takes 2 good days (9 a.m. to 6 p.m.) to treat an apartment (60 m² for us) properly (we also have a small garden of 50 m2, we just shortened the height of the wild grass and grass, no need to treat with 4J insecticide). For us in any case, the time to tidy up, put the washable textiles in a bag or directly in the machine for the most urgent, to clean, treat, re-clean, put back in place... it took us 48 hours, two . On the product side, it is necessary to count (still for our surface of 60m² + car and a few additional spray shots): 250mL of 4d concentrate, 500mL of 4d diluted in its spray, 1 spray of 300mL of ecodoo insecticide + 1 garden spray, and of course, household gloves and large bags for clothes (we took the recycling bags distributed free of charge by our city!). Honestly, it's laborious, but what a relief to find an apartment without fleas!!
Personally, I couldn't believe it!! It's been 1 month now, and 0 fleas to report! We didn't even need to do another treatment! Of course, for the time being, and I think for at least the next 12 months, we will continue to pipette our dog every month Adv*c*t*... If I take the time to write all this , is that it was a pain for us, but that I am happy to have found a solution to treat our environment effectively and as naturally as possible. So, admittedly it seems a bit expensive (but personally, considering the hell, I didn't care about the price after 2 fogger failures!), it's a manual treatment so a bit tedious (but hey, you just have to get started, after it's ok), the product is a little viscous... But I don't regret it for a second, and to do it again, I'll do it without even going through the stage - in my opinion totally useless! - foggers! So ! Thank you Penntybio for giving us the tools to get rid of those daily flea bites! And once the "flea paranoid" has been totally forgotten (in a year or 2? :)), I may even try to do without the Adv*c*te pipette on my dog, and replace it with one of your products... To see :). I hope that this testimonial will allow others than us to find a serene life, and will also restore confidence in "natural" products (even if of course natural does not mean that there is no toxicity for any organism alive, natural pyrethrum, after reading several articles, seems to be all the same a lesser evil...).
Courage to all those struggling with an insect infestation: we can overcome it! :)
Flea Frequently Asked Questions
A : I know cats don't like this but you should start by giving her a special flea shampoo and a lice comb (see our category "Protection of pets). Then you can possibly treat her against new For soil you can treat with our 4J Insecticide This will kill fleas and eggs.
A : This was an error in the description text. We changed that. Certain molecules that have a repellent action are extracted from essential oils. For more information, do not hesitate to consult our file on essential oils and the cat.
A : Our insecticide only kills fleas that have been touched by the product (contact insecticide). To be effective, you must start by making sure that your animal no longer carries either a flea or an egg, but also its diaper or cushion. For slatted floor, it's a little more complicated, the answers are in our "floor flea" file.
A : Simply treat your driveway with our 4J insecticide as if you were treating hardwood floors. Do the treatment during the coolest hours so that the pyrethrum of the product is not damaged by UV too quickly.
A : You can still diffuse whatever essential oil you want, but if you have flea eggs or larvae, they won't go away. They must be destroyed with a contact insecticide, starting of course by treating your pets.
A : Unlike the dog flea, the cat flea attacks humans. You will find information about the house and the cat in our file "floor flea".
A : As the flea is relatively easy to eliminate, you can use our Insecticide for all insects (4J diluted at 5%) and/or Ecodoo Ready-to-Use Insecticide. The first being more suitable for treating large surfaces and floor, the second more for treating beds, sofas or closed volumes (cupboards, cupboards, etc.).
A : She likes temperatures between 18 and 27°C and a humidity level of around 70%. The flea dies when you expose it for an hour to a temperature > 39°C, but also if you put your clothes in the freezer.
A : If it's not a flea, maybe it's a bedbug? But you could very well have brought it home through your clothes.
A : The floor flea is just a flea from an animal that grows in floor grooves! See also our file "floor flea".
A : You should know that some smoke bombs sold on the market are totally ineffective (many feedback from our customers) and that in any case, they do not kill the eggs. They must be supplemented with a "liquid" contact insecticide treatment. See also our file "floor flea".
A : Rule n°1, you must also treat your animals otherwise the treatments of the buildings will not be sufficient. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : You can use our 4J Insecticide to treat the exterior but it will biodegrade quickly. For fleas, a 5% dilution is sufficient. Apply on dry soil and preferably in the evening, to limit the destructive action of UV and heat on pyrethrum. Any fleas touched by the product will die.
A : If the fleas are in your house, the treatment remains the same as for the flea encountered in France. The flea can, like most insects, transmit diseases. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : The cat is very sensitive to all products, so you should not apply any product to it. You will find various repellent products in our section "Protection of pets)
A : There is no specific product for men, but lice shampoo should normally be effective against fleas as well.
A : You can have fleas for 1 year after having pets, eggs are very hardy. The insecticides that you will find in pet stores, pharmacies or supermarkets are often very insufficient to get rid of them. In particular, they will not destroy the eggs. These require contact treatment as with our 4J insecticide. To protect you from bites, we have a very effective anti-insect skin spray lotion based on eucalyptus citriodora. To find out about the treatment protocol and all the products necessary for an anti-flea treatment, we invite you to read or re-read our file dedicated to this insect. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : For the Fro*tli*e branded product, this is not surprising. Several customers have already told us that fleas are getting used to this type of product. This is why Fro*tli*e co*bo (new version) was released. Concerning animals, our products are more to be used as a preventive than a curative, except possibly our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel which gives good results on most insects. It can be used on all warm-blooded animals, except cats, which cannot be treated with essential oils. Concerning your house, we use 1 liter of diluted insecticide for 10m² of surface. If done well, one treatment is sufficient. Given your surface, it is best to take the 4j in its concentrated form and dilute it to 5%. This will be enough to destroy the fleas. For more information and answers, go to our special file floor fleas.
A : Our insect repellent skin spray should also be effective on the flea. It contains eucalyptus citriodora which creates a remarkable repellent effect on all biting-sucking insects such as fleas. But I also advise you to treat the fleas themselves, otherwise, you are only doing half the job!
A : Fleas do not live in clothes. On the other hand, they seek the heat of your body and blood to nourish themselves. It is necessary to properly treat your apartment and at the same time wash your clothes.
A : Start by cleaning it well (excrement, straw, etc.) then use a garden-type sprayer to treat all surfaces with our insecticide (diluted at 5%). Repeat this operation a week later.
A : No, a smoke bomb will not be enough. Besides not working well (it won't destroy flea eggs), it will poison you for quite a while. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : Smoke bombs are effective (not all!!) on insects but not on eggs and I don't think it has any after-use effects. All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : The products we sell often have complementary actions. But if you only want to use one, the most essential of all will be our 4J insecticide. You can easily find it on our site. It exists either in diluted form (ready to use), or pure, to be diluted yourself to the desired concentration. The 5% dilution being the one we recommend against the flea.
A : Be aware that smoke bombs do not kill eggs, and hatching can be very rapid. Start by checking your cat for fleas and eggs before continuing to treat, otherwise you're wasting your time.
A : Smoke bombs can be effective but only in a fully enclosed room and they do not kill the eggs. Either you treat several times with smoke bombs at 48 hour intervals, but you will not be guaranteed to have eliminated them all, or you treat with our liquid insecticide + a smoke bomb. Operation that you will renew 1 week later. To protect you, our anti-insect skin spray will give excellent results against bites.
A : A cat flea can pass on humans or dogs and come back to the cat. So you were able to send it or them elsewhere. For the sting, we often use essential oil of lavandin or our roll on, it calms the itching.
A : Our ALT'O ZINSECT spray insect repellent is very effective on all parasites. And especially biting-sucking insects like the flea. It can be applied to dogs, but avoid application to cats. He is too sensitive an animal. Otherwise, it can be used on all animals. For the 30 ml pipette product with Margosa, this will depend on the size of the animal. Normally, 30 ml allows you to do several treatments without problems.
A : All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to the floor flea. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : Why didn't they die? Smoke bombs do not kill the eggs and hatching can be very rapid (heat+humidity). How to get rid of it? All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to floor fleas. Where are the larvae? is there a nest? : Wherever your pets have gone, since the eggs fall from their coats and mainly in the grooves of the floors (hence the name floor fleas). They can remain active for several months or more! How to treat animals? We have a wide range of products on our site, but mainly in preventive treatment. Very effective and safe for animals.
A : For fleas or ticks, we recommend a treatment with a concentration of 5%. The 1.5% concentration can only be used for very small insects such as mites, red spiders, etc. If the product is not sufficiently concentrated, it will not be effective. In bath you can try a 1% concentration but I'm not sure if it will work on the eggs.
A : Smoke bombs are generally quite effective at least on adults (it won't kill the eggs) provided they are of good quality and the room is completely sealed. Several treatments with 4J diluted to 5% with a sprayer should allow you to overcome it. Treat every 2 to 3 days, so as to gradually eliminate outbreaks.
A : Maybe, but we have no information on this property of vanilla.
A : We have a special flea and floor flea page. For the treatment, you can use the pure 4d insecticide that you will dilute at 5% in water.
A : We have a case of floor fleas which should give you a lot of answers. Our 4J Insecticide can be used with children and pets without concern. Take them out of the treated rooms for a few hours to carry out the treatment and ventilate well.
A : Our 4J all insect insecticide diluted at 5%
A : You have to start by treating your animals if you haven't already done so, in order to eliminate the source. After having treated your animals, it will be necessary to treat the places where they sleep, baskets, carpets, .. (and perhaps your whole house, everything depends on the invasion) with an insecticide; Our 4J liquid insecticide will get you out of it. Do not hesitate to consult our file on the floor flea. You will find many answers there.
A : As I assume you can't kill fleas on your patients, you have to protect yourself by using a repellent that you put on your legs. I don't see the point of the product you are currently using, vinegar is good for soothing bites, but what is the insecticide for? On the site you have several products to soothe insect bites and repellent products but also an anti-insect skin spray that can also be used to protect yourself from bites.
A : It is correct that it is not recommended to use essential oils on cats. In general, essential oils alone are rarely effective on fleas, at least curatively. We have several products for cats including the collar and the zero flea. These products are to be used as a preventive measure with the risk of allergic reactions on certain cats (geraniol), just like all commercial anti-flea products.
A : All the answers to your questions in our file dedicated to the floor fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.
A : All of our insecticides are completely safe for children. Normally, in the event of a flea infestation, it is necessary to carry out a rigorous treatment of all the infested areas (floors, baseboards, cupboards, etc.) in order to destroy the fleas but also the eggs. It is best to use our 4J insecticide diluted 5% with water in a garden sprayer.
A : Our insecticide can be sprayed on all surfaces. It is effective on the whole cycle of insects, from egg to adult.
A : I think you have to start by treating the animal. Then, treat with 4J insecticide the place where the animal sleeps (basket, carpet, etc.). Normally, animal fleas do not go on humans (except cat fleas). If there really is an infestation, you will need to use a garden-type sprayer and treat the entire apartment.
A : Our insecticide is effective on fleas (eggs, adults) but also on mites. The amount of product to use will depend on the thickness of the carpet. A few hours after the treatment, vacuum the dead insects.
A : Yes, our "all insects 4J diluted 5%" insecticide will be perfect for getting rid of these unwanted little creatures. If you have a small area, a spray bottle may be sufficient. On the other hand, for large areas, the treatment will be much more effective and simpler with a garden-type pressure sprayer. A systematic treatment will be necessary, so don't forget the nooks, baseboards etc...
A : It's not easy, especially if your floor is parquet or if you have skirting boards, they will settle in all the gaps or nooks they will encounter! A smoke bomb hit in a room is not enough. It is necessary to make a surface treatment of all places where they can hide, treat your mattress, carpets, etc. Our 4J insecticide will be perfect for this type of insect. A spray bottle is not enough when you want to treat large areas, so you can use a garden type pressure sprayer. Cold kills fleas. As for bleach, I'm not sure it can kill them!
A : You can use our 4J insecticide. This product should be sprayed with a garden-type pressure sprayer over the entire surface of your room and mainly in the corners (baseboards, parquet joints, cracks, etc.). On the other hand, do not forget to treat your domestic animals if you have some with an effective veterinary product. If the application of the insecticide is well done, it is radical.
A : We have several cat treatment products that you will find on our site. They are not insecticides but repellents. They are totally devoid of toxicity on humans and domestic animals.
A : The solution is simple but can be a little time consuming depending on the degree of invasion and the surface to be treated. It is necessary to treat the whole of the room or rooms where the fleas are and mainly all the nooks and crannies where they live, floors, baseboards, wash the sheets treat the mattresses, possibly cupboards and cupboards. For this, you must use a garden type pressure sprayer that you adjust quite fine, but not a mist. (Droplets =100 to 200 microns, Diffusion pressure=1.6 bar). We use approximately 1l of diluted insecticide / 10 m2 of treated surface. As the insecticide kills eggs, larvae and insects, if the treatment is done well, you should be cleared.
A : Fleas usually settle between floorboards or behind baseboards. It is then easy for them to bite their legs when you enter certain rooms. In any case, our insecticide is effective on all insects. I think it will be necessary to treat the cats with a veterinary product, then their baskets and bedding, but also wash your sheets and blankets and treat the box spring mattress with our 4J insecticide diluted to 5%. In the case of floor flea, it will also be necessary to treat the parquet and the baseboards. You will have all the information on our floor fleas page. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.
A : No, sorry, it won't work.
A : That's right, cats lack a major enzyme (glucuronyl transferase) which allows them to break down certain molecules in order to make them soluble, which then allows them to evacuate them from their body through their urine. Due to the absence of this molecule, the essential oils cannot be degraded and will accumulate in his liver. This accumulation in the long run can lead to the death of the animal.
A : The active molecule is geraniol
A : The instructions for the conditioner are very vague, however the manufacturer of the product assured us that it was large molecule geraniol which does not penetrate the skin.
A : Manufacturer testing is flea and tick. It also specifies "and biting insects" without further precision, which is normal, it is impossible to verify the effectiveness of the product on all biting insects! I therefore cannot assure you that this collar is repellent to all mosquitoes
R : At least 1 year, under normal storage conditions.
A : It is indeed a single pipette, containing 30 ml of margosa. Just press it to squeeze out the liquid. Pour the desired dose directly on the skin of the animal, on the back, behind the head. Spread your pet's hair as much as possible in order to put the product in contact with the skin. In the case of an animal over 8 kg, distribute the dose in two places: behind the head and in the middle of the back. For an animal weighing more than 15 kg, distribute the dose this time in three points: behind the head, in the middle of the back and at the bottom of the back. If you have trouble estimating the dose you apply, you can buy a 1 ml pipette in parallel.
A : Regarding neem oil, I cannot answer you, it will depend on its quality and especially on its concentration of azadirachtin. On the other hand, we market an insect repellent perfectly suited for horses: ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel. A formula combining 3 recognized active ingredients (Eucalyptus citriodora, vegetable pyrethrum and geraniol), extremely effective in keeping biting insects at bay.
A : Our 4J insecticide based on pyrethrum and potassium soap destroys fleas, larvae, eggs. Eggs can only be destroyed by "mechanical" and non-neurotoxic means. In our case, it is black soap. To eradicate fleas, it is above all necessary that the carrier animals, often cats, are treated correctly otherwise the possibility is left for living fleas to continue to reproduce!
A : You are the first person to tell us about the difficulty of putting on this collar unless your collar has a problem, just pass the strap through the loop and if it is too long, we cut the excess with scissors. Do not hesitate to contact us if these explanations are not sufficient.
A : If taking the normal flea cycle, one treatment every 2-3 weeks is sufficient. On the other hand, if your cat begins to scratch or if you see fleas, it will be necessary to intervene very quickly.
A : For the treatment of animals against ticks, we recommend our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray. This product has been developed for horses, donkeys, ponies, cows, sheep..
A : Before any treatment, your pet must be thoroughly treated with a veterinary "insecticide". Avoid the Fro*tli*e if you have a cat we have a lot of inefficiency feedback. When the animal is fully protected and no longer a carrier, treatment can then be considered. Regarding the fogger, it pollutes your environment and in any case will not destroy the eggs. Regularly spray essential oils of mint, lavender, etc. it must smell very good but it is totally ineffective on insects. It destroys bacteria! If you use a 5% concentration with the 4J, it is not necessary to wash on the floor; let dry with the current heat it goes very quickly. Our insecticide contains pyrethrum, soap, essential oils, so it is completely safe in a home; now it is obvious when you treat, that it is better to avoid objects which risk being licked (just like a cleaning product for washing).
A : Before any treatment of your interiors, your pet must be thoroughly treated with a veterinary "insecticide". Avoid the Fro*tli*e if you have a cat. We have a lot of inefficiency feedback! When the animal is fully protected and no longer a carrier, we can consider treating the area. If your cat is perfectly protected and you haven't seen a flea for a week, it's because hidden larvae have just turned into fleas; between the egg and the flea it takes 10 days. If there are eggs or larvae, try to find the spaces where they are hiding and treat accordingly with our insecticide.
A : Pyrethrum can be dangerous to a cat, like most products if you apply it to them. The product being absorbed when it is licked. The 4j is a surface treatment insecticide unlike the Ecodoo which is sprayed into the air, so there is no delay, just open the window when treating. Adios Double Action spray is not made for cats. Moreover, on the product sheet, we indicate it since we recommend the Penntybio dry shampoo. Diatomaceous earth is not dangerous if taken in small quantities since it is also sold as a feed supplement for livestock. In any case, for a cat, it will be necessary to pass after the application of the product its hair with a fine comb (lice comb) to remove the dead fleas and eliminate part of the soil.
A : In theory yes, since pyrethrum is very often used on animals but in low concentrations < 0.5%. In practice no, since it is an insecticide approved for building treatments, and not for veterinary use.
A : No problem with our products. All our products and treatment information are available in our special file "floor flea". Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions after reading the file. Product can only be ordered online in our store. We do not distribute to brands or specialized stores.
A : Yes, can be used multiple times. It has a small cap to close it. Remember to keep away from light and preferably in a cool place (avoid the refrigerator).
A : You need a garden type sprayer, 5 liters of water in which you incorporate a 250ml bottle of 4J concentrate. Which gives you 5% focus. That's enough to cure the flea. Then, you water the entire infested surface (50m²). Any affected fleas will die but no afterglow. Do the treatment during the cooler hours and exposed to the sun to limit the degradation of pyrethrum by UV rays. Attention, also, if this type of treatment will kill a good part of the fleas, it will not spare the other insects of your garden, like the auxiliaries.
A : If your animal is perfectly treated and no longer has fleas, we invite you to read our file dedicated to this insect. We explain the treatment protocol with the most appropriate products. Be careful when using the fogger. It's good for adult fleas, but totally ineffective on eggs! You absolutely must treat in parallel with a contact insecticide like our 4J.
A : Regarding jumping "critters", it could well be fleas. This is very common in hot weather. These fleas can be deposited by many mammals, cats of course, but also others, such as hedgehogs
A : Cats don't really like bug spray. I would rather recommend a product based on Neem which acts less quickly but which lasts longer and which does not contain neurotoxic. See for example our ARIES Anti-Mite Spray.
A : For maximum protection, it will be necessary to reapply a dose of repellent each time the animal has been heavily wet (rain, bath) or at least once every 3 weeks.
A : Cat fleas that are in floor crevices are very common. Rule n°1: Treat your cat with a veterinary insecticide such as Stro*gho*d. As long as your cat has fleas, there is no solution! See also our special file "floor flea". You will find there many answers as well as the appropriate products for the treatment of fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.
A : We had problems a few years ago with geraniol pipettes on cats. Mainly allergic reactions resulting in redness and hair loss. We don't have any problems now, but they are likely to be less concentrated. You can try the margosa pipettes that we market which have no essential oils left at all and the margosa does not cause any reaction problems. In case of fleas on a cat, what works well is diatomaceous earth or our dry shampoo composed of talc and margosa.
A : 4J insecticide contains potassium soap to increase its effectiveness on larvae (asphyxiating effect). When you prepare your dilution of pure product, if you use too high a dosage, there is a risk that a small greasy film will remain on the surfaces you have treated. For effective flea control, a 5% dilution is sufficient. With this dilution, you have almost no residual traces of potassium soap. Washing the floors is enough to remove this thin film. It remains soap, so it is perfectly washable with water. No problem with a floor that has been varnished. This layer is made to protect the floor. Use a damp mop and quickly dry behind with a very dry cloth.
Regarding the most appropriate product to treat less accessible places such as the back of skirting boards, I recommenda the Pistal Aries All Insects insecticide.The composition is almost the same as 4J (pyrethrum + paraffin instead of potassium soap). The advantage of this product is that it comes in the form of an aerosol. The product is therefore expelled further allowing to reach corners that are more difficult to access.
A : Hello. Indeed, a mouse can carry fleas but also other parasites such as lice, scabies or ringworm. Very often, they transmit them to a domestic animal which itself spreads them in the dwelling. If the mice are visible from time to time, it is therefore not impossible that they are the source of the infestation you are facing.