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Floor fleas : cat or dog fleas... jumping champions !

Have you noticed fleas in your home recently ? Are they starting to invade your home and you don't know where to start ? An invasion of floor fleas can become complicated if you don't act quickly. In this dossier, you'll find all the answers and products you need to combat this invasive insect naturally.

I would like to

Find out more about the floor flea

(identity, feeding habits, reproduction, etc.)

Control the floor flea

(method of action, natural insecticides, etc.)

Who is the floor flea ?

Mouthparts of the grinder-type flea

Latin name : Ctenocephalides felis
Order : Siphonaptera
Family : Pulicidae
Size : 1 to 8 mm
Location : any habitat
Period : All year round

General information on the flea

parquet chip

The first description of the flea dates back to 1400 BC! The 2,000 known species belong to the order Siphonaptera.

Measuring just a few millimetres in length, the flea's robust hind legs make it a champion jumper in terms of both length (40 cm) and height (20 cm).

Its legs, with spines grouped in series, enable it to cling firmly to its host.

Its body, compressed on either side, allows it to move easily between the hairs or fur of its host. As it does not like light, it lives mainly deep in the fur.

It is an ectoparasite (it lives on the body surface of a living being), sucking the blood of mammals or birds.

It likes temperatures between 18 and 27°C and humidity levels of around 70%.

The ideal conditions for its development are therefore warm, humid periods such as spring or autumn.

The flea dies when exposed for an hour to a temperature > 39°C.

Adult fleas can live for 6 to 12 months, and larvae can survive for up to 2 months without food.

Its mouth apparatus is made up of 3 stylets: the median, hollow one, which allows blood to be sucked, while the other 2 allow saliva (anti-coagulant) to be injected.

Irritation is caused by the host's immune system reacting to the substances present in the flea's salivary secretions.

The flea needs a host

the cat with fleas

The human flea (Pulex irritans) has fortunately become extremely rare in our country.

It also infests pigs, foxes, badgers and hedgehogs.

In some rare countries, together with the rat flea (Xenopsylla chaeopsis), it can transmit the bubonic plague bacillus.

Dog and cat fleas can also transmit an intestinal parasite, Dipylidium caninum. It is therefore advisable to worm your pet regularly in addition to flea control.

The dog flea, Ctenocephalides canis, infests dogs and cats.

But the cat flea, Ctenocephalides felis, is the most common: it infests cats, of course, but also many European mammals such as dogs... and possibly man if he happens to be passing by!

Birds, both wild and domestic, are regular victims of fleas (infested nests). These include Ceratophyllus gallinae, the scourge of hen houses, and Dasypsyllus gallinulae, common in small birds.

Usually, fleas prefer to live on animals such as cats and dogs, but in the absence of their favourite animal, they can jump onto humans.

This situation arises, for example, if the pet is absent from the home for some time or in the event of a major infestation.

How does a flea locate its host in order to feed ?

Fleas locate their hosts using a highly specialised recognition system, called chemoreceptors, located on the antennae. These chemoreceptors are sensitive to various parameters :
- Olfaction
- Perception of heat
- Infrared radiation
- Day/night vision
- Chemo-olfactance (perception of specific molecules and odours)
- Vibration

Specific data (osmolarity, salinity, chemical composition) confirm to "suckers" like fleas that they are indeed sucking blood and can therefore feed. The precision of sensory perception is linked to the number of chemoreceptors. A flea that lives close to its host has very few antennular receptors (fewer than 50, compared with a mosquito or fly, which can have up to 5,000). These are also used for sexual purposes.

Pets = fleas, so be vigilant !

  • If your pet scratches abnormally and sheds,
  • If combing sessions reveal an increase in the flea population,
  • If their excrement, a fine black dust on the skin, is visible and abundant when the hair is parted,
  • If  fleas are increasingly attacking people living in the house,
  • If your cat or dog regularly goes outside the house when it's warm and humid.

What you need to know about fleas

parquet chip

Floor fleasThere are various types of flea, all of which come from animals (cats, dogs, birds, rats, etc.). The cat flea (Ctenocephalides felis) is the most common species in our homes. Your pet is probably carrying fleas without you noticing.

The flea is a wingless insect that lives on a host (animal, human) and feeds on its blood. After sucking the blood, the flea irritates the skin, leaving a reddened area with a dark red spot in the centre. It mainly parasitises cats and dogs. However, in the absence of its preferred hosts, it can easily adapt to other hosts, such as you. It is important to be wary of it because it is a vector of disease (typhus, tapeworms, allergies, etc.). In rabbits, for example, it transmits myxomatosis.

Why is it called a "floor flea" ?

chip paw

The flea lays its eggs on its host. The eggs can easily detach from the fur of a cat or dog and fall into the places visited by the pet : between the slats of a wooden floor, in the carpet, in its basket, on your sofa, etc. Under the right conditions, there can be a sudden, massive outbreak of "floor fleas".

In favourable conditions (heat + humidity), a flea larva reaches the adult stage in 2 to 3 weeks. In poor conditions (absence of a host, low temperatures), the cycle can last up to 6 months.

Flea populations generally peak towards the end of summer, when the temperature and humidity required for adult emergence are optimal.

A single female lays an average of 200 eggs over her lifetime. This means that adult fleas represent only 1% of the total flea population (99% are in the form of eggs or larvae). So it's not surprising that after a few days away from home, you find a "carpet" of fleas jumping up and down on your parquet or carpet.

The flea's development cycles

The flea has four development cycles: egg, larva, nymph and adult.

The length of the life cycle depends on the species, temperature, humidity and access to food.

If all the right conditions are met, a flea will reach the adult stage in two to three weeks. If not, it can take several months to develop.

The egg stage
After each blood meal, the female flea lays four to eight round eggs, measuring around 0.5 mm, with a smooth shell, a whitish colour and a sticky texture.
Eggs laid on the animal do not remain there and fall off when the animal scratches itself.
Places often frequented by dogs (or cats) are very rich in eggs! In optimal conditions, the female can lay up to 25 eggs in 1 day.
She will lay around 800 eggs in her lifetime.

The larva stage
After 2 to 12 days, a larva (worm-like, white and hairy, 1 to 5 mm long) is born where the egg fell.
This larva is mobile. As it fears light, it takes refuge in preferably dark places. It is also sensitive to variations in humidity and temperature.
The larval stage lasts from 1 to 3 weeks, if conditions are favourable (18° to 27° and 70% relative humidity).
The larva is detricolous, which means that it feeds on adult flea excrement and animal faecal debris.
The larva can survive for up to two hundred days in unfavourable conditions, moving at distances of up to 30 cm per minute. The larva wraps itself around the nearest object, often the fibres of a carpet, to avoid falling victim to the hoover. The larva then weaves a cocoon and pupates.

The pupal stage
During the third stage of development, the larva covers itself with dust, fibres, grains of sand and organic debris. Under this covering, it weaves a cocoon using the silk provided by its labial glands.
In its cocoon, the larva is protected from all external aggressions: heat, desiccation, etc. It can therefore survive for several months without feeding.
Normally, the nymph develops in 1 to 2 weeks, but this state can last up to 1 year if conditions are unfavourable.
As soon as the pupa detects the presence of a host (animal or human) through vibrations, heat or a higher concentration of carbon dioxide (which occurs when a cat, dog or human passes by), it emerges from its cocoon and jumps onto the host to take a blood meal. The flea rapidly grows in size and takes on a lighter, reddish-brown colour.
This means you can very quickly be invaded by what is known as the floor flea. This is very common after a few weeks' absence (holidays) or in holiday homes.

The adult stage
See "General information on fleas" above.

Preventive measures : our recommendations

  • Try to keep your pet out of places where it will be difficult to eliminate fleas (bed, sofa, attic, etc.).
  • Regularly wash or treat the area where your pet sleeps, especially fabrics or blankets.
  • Vacuum regularly all the rooms or surfaces where your pet has been or is lying down. Don't forget the corners and underside of furniture and carpets. Pay particular attention to rugs, cushions, carpets and all surfaces with fibres, as larvae will cling to them. Avoid using sweepers, which tend to disperse the eggs.
  •  In the event of an infestation, don't hesitate to dispose of the hoover bag straight away: burn it or, after wrapping it in plastic, put it in the freezer.

Curative : treat the floor flea

parquet chip

While foggers (a spray that creates an insecticide fog) or insecticide bombs may destroy adult fleas, they will not destroy the eggs.

In fact, neurotoxins have no effect on either the eggs or the larvae, which are well protected in their cocoons. To destroy eggs and larvae, you need a product with a "mechanical action" such as paraffin oil (which is the case with Tous Insectes Pistal) or potassium soap (which is the case with our 4J insecticide). The egg or larva must also be in physical contact with the product.

Depending on the degree of infestation, various products are available.

1.The 1st thing to do is to treat your pet. As long as it is carrying fleas, you will continue to have fleas in your home. Here's the advice we can give you:

- Wash your pet regularly with a special anti-parasite shampoo.

- Comb your pet regularly (use a fine-toothed comb : either this one with 64 teeth or this one with 69 teeth), especially the nape of the neck and around the tail, after untangling the coat with a brush.

- As a preventive or curative treatment for your pets, you'll find a number of effective, natural products on our website in our "Protecting pets" section. These products are generally used at the start of the high-risk season, but for certain animals living permanently in heated rooms, it is sometimes necessary to treat throughout the year.

2. Then treat its environment with our 4J insecticide diluted at 5% : Everything can be treated: baskets, fabrics, blankets, kennels, etc. This is an important precaution, because adult fleas lay eggs on their host, which can fall and hatch in places where the animal lies down.

3. On any type of floor, if you're heavily invaded (hundreds of fleas jumping around), spray all surfaces with our ready-to-use 4J insecticide diluted to 5%. If you start treating large areas, prefer 4J concentrated insecticide (same product but in concentrated form). You make the dilution yourself: 5% pure product + 95% water.

For large treatment areas, a garden sprayer will be more effective and more practical than a vaporiser. All fleas affected by the insecticide must die immediately. Don't forget corners or the underside of furniture.

After this treatment, vacuum to remove the corpses, paying particular attention to rugs, cushions, carpets and all surfaces with fibres, as the larvae will cling to them. We advise you to wear a pair of boots when carrying out this operation, as fleas are likely to jump onto your legs!

Note : to make 5 litres of insecticide at 5% concentration, you need 250ml of concentrated 4J. This will enable you to treat around 50m². To treat 100m², you'll need a 500ml bottle. This insecticide is also available in 125ml (25m²) and 1 litre (200m²).

flea larva in the middle of a meal

4. As the Aries All Insects aerosol is pressurised, it's ideal for reaching more difficult areas that you wouldn't be able to access with a sprayer or vaporiser.

5. Then use our Ecodoo insecticide aerosol to treat fragile fabrics and upholstery (carpets, rugs, sofas, armchairs, cushions, etc.).

6. On slatted parquet (with grooves) or other identical surfaces, a treatment with 4J insecticide diluted at 5% is also recommended. As flea larvae flee light and dryness, they take refuge in small nooks and crannies such as floor cracks (hence their name), but also behind and under furniture, under the edges of carpets, along skirting boards, in heating and ventilation ducts and in all places where the floor is shaded and damp.

7. For wooden floors, it's really important to treat the grooves, which generally contain dust. You can use a garden sprayer or a sprayer set to "jet" so that the entire groove is well impregnated with insecticide. The eggs and larvae must be coated with the product for it to take effect.

Don't sweep up the eggs, but vacuum them up to prevent them from spreading to the four corners of your home.

8. To be on the safe side, you can fumigate once the 4J insecticide treatment has been carried out. The Habitat fogger is perfect for this. This is an automatic insecticide dispenser based on active ingredients of plant origin (pyrethrum + geraniol), designed for basic treatment of the home. Highly volatile, the solution is deposited in the smallest nooks and crannies where parasites and insects live. Immediate and prolonged action, for up to 4 months. 3 different sizes are available: 75 ml for treatment of less than 15 m², 150 ml for treatment of less than 30 m². Lastly, 250 ml, for a treatment of more than 30 m².

The products you need against fleas

Step 1 - I make sure my pet is flea-free

Before you even start treating your rooms, protect your pet by removing all fleas. If you don't do this, fleas will inevitably still be jumping from its coat onto your armchairs or wooden floors. Several repellent products can help you do this. They come in the form of spray lotions, foam or powder dry shampoos or simply shampoos that you can wash off. Be careful, these products are sold as insect repellents. In other words, they do not destroy the insect. Their function is to chase them away from the animal using powerful plant-based active ingredients. If the invasion is too serious and the fleas won't go away, opt for a veterinary product.


Step 2 - Treating the surfaces of my home

Once your pet is flea-free (and this is often the key to success), you can treat your rooms with our insecticide products below :

Insecticide 4J diluted 5% - All insects -...

(203) 
Ready-to-use  4J insecticide diluted to 5% . With this concentration, you will destroy  most flying and crawling insects  very quickly....
€8.25
In stock

4J Insecticide concentrate with plant...

(301) 
4J insecticide concentrate to be diluted. Effective against a large number of crawling and flying insects in our homes. Available in...
€16.58
In stock

All Insects Natural Insecticide Aerosol -...

(66) 
Pistal insecticide with PBO-free plant pyrethrum extract is a fast-acting universal natural insecticide. This formula kills all...
€13.50
In stock

Fogger Habitat with plant-based active...

(36) 
This is fogger composed of plant-based assets is intended for the background treatment of the habitat in case of infestation by mites,...
€12.42
In stock

Step 3 - I protect my pet from getting fleas again

This last step should not be neglected. It's essential and should be repeated from time to time if you don't want the fleas to come back. We offer collars, pipettes and insect repellent sprays, either geraniol-based or based on Margosa extract. Finally, don't forget to relieve itching with our soothing and deodorising STOP Scratch lotion made with natural plant extracts.

Discover our full range of natural products to combat floor fleas.

Go to our Parquet Flea Products page

Customer experience


According to feedback from our customers who have followed this procedure, you can expect the chips to disappear completely in 1 or 2 treatments the following exchange of letters is interesting because it highlights a few points) :

Our customer : I wanted to let you know how delighted I am (let's hope it lasts!) with the flea treatment I've had in my house. In addition to the ease of use and the very pleasant smell, I haven't seen a single flea since yesterday. I've had them for 2 years and it's a real relief! I'm going to follow your advice and repeat the treatment in a fortnight's time.

Penn'ty Bio : After a treatment, you need to vacuum up any larvae that have not been killed. The carrier animal must either be treated correctly (see your vet or our products for treating dogs and dogs), or no longer enter.

Our customer : I first treated the small outbuilding (30 m²) that was most affected and the stone sheds around the garden with your insecticide diluted at 5%. A few days later, there were still fleas, but far fewer and smaller. I did a 2nd treatment at a slightly lower concentration (3%) to save money. A week later, even fewer fleas, but still small ones. I have the impression that it's new hatchings each time and that the product is less effective on the eggs. I still have enough product left to make 1 or 2 litres. What do you think and what do you recommend ?

Penn'ty Bio : There's something I don't understand. The flea cycle is as follows: after each blood meal, female fleas lay 4 to 8 eggs. The egg hatches after a few days and a larva emerges. The larva is not a parasite. It goes through 3 stages during which it feeds on organic debris, larval remains and dried blood found in the excretions of adult fleas. It then covers itself with dust, fibres and organic debris, and under this covering weaves a cocoon that partly protects it from insecticides. Favourable conditions encourage the emergence of fleas: vibrations, increased temperature and carbon dioxide concentrations. Adults then emerge immediately and the cycle can continue.

This means that either the treatment is insufficient and the larvae are not destroyed (larvae are only destroyed if they are physically wetted by the insecticide), or you have cats that return regularly to this outbuilding and bring back new fleas. A customer who called me yesterday treated her cats and then her flat with a 5% dilution of 4J insecticide. Result: she no longer has any fleas, but the carrier cat no longer comes home !

In the outbuilding, after a treatment, vacuum up any larvae (dead or alive) and prevent cats from returning. Normally, if you do this, your problem should have been solved with the 1st treatment ! If the cats don't come back in but you can't vacuum, because fleas can't reproduce any more, you'll end up getting them. If, on the other hand, you can't keep the cats out, there are only 2 solutions: use a radical insecticide treatment (a tablet you can get from a vet) or wait for the cold to stop the fleas' reproduction cycle !

Our customer : I used the rest of the product to treat my addiction again and 2 days later I vacuumed it as you advised. After that, the addiction remained closed. Since then, I've been home twice and I haven't seen any fleas jumping up and down on my legs like before, so it seems to have been resolved. I'm still going to wait for the cold of winter before opening it again and letting the cat in.


Customer testimonial on the use of our 4J flea repellent :

I'm taking the time to leave a comment here, because we thought we'd never get out of the flea trap, and it was out of desperation that we came to try this product. Here's the initial situation: our dog had been suffering from fleas for several months.

At first, out of conviction, I tried several methods to scare them away, using lavender and other essential oils, white vinegar, etc.... This seemed to limit the damage in winter, but we were never completely rid of them. In spring and summer, of course, the fleas multiplied. As I have "insect skin" ;), I got bitten a lot (my partner didn't :(), and I suppose our dog did too, judging by the increasing number we saw on his body, and the scratching.

After trying Fr*ntl*ne C*mb* pipettes to no avail (our dog was still full of fleas, with no noticeable effect), we did some more research and learned that many species of flea had developed resistance to the active molecule in Fr*ntl*ne. We then turned to Adv*c*te to treat our dog: immediate success! 2 months later, still no fleas on our dog :)! 1st victory! But there were still fleas in the flat (old parquet flooring in the 3 main rooms), so I was still bitten! 2 sessions of "Cl*m*nt Th*kan" foggers later, still fleas! Another search on the net: and there we find the penntybio website!

Let's get started : we put all our clothes in big bin bags with diatomaceous earth sprinkled on top (I don't know if this step had any effect...), waiting to wash them and gradually put them back in the flat (and put the first "batches" back in at 60°C / tumble dry / iron! :)).

After that, it was time for a big clean: vacuum everything, especially the skirting boards and parquet, then throw the vacuum bag in the bin. We bought a simple garden spray bottle, with a handle for spraying, at a DIY superstore like C*st*, for less than £10. We filled it with 4J concentrate diluted to 5%, as recommended by Penntybio. Rubber boots on + tropical mosquito spray on: we were armed ;)! We used the Ecodoo spray sold on this same website on wooden furniture (especially those that were quite 'porous' with lots of gaps!), fragile fabrics (leather...), non-washable backpacks/handbags, in short, anything that might have been used to transport or harbour fleas or their eggs/larvae... Then, after waiting 30 minutes for the vapours from the Ecodoo spray to dissipate (it's very strong, it's better to spray and then leave the room ;)), we came back with the garden sprayer filled with diluted 4J and sprayed meticulously, first all around the room (the skirting boards), then all over the floor, so that not a single cm2 of the floor had been in contact with the product, insisting on the cracks in the parquet, which I totally flooded !

Then, with the rest of the product from the vapo' (the doses indicated by penntybio per m2 are exact, we certainly didn't need less! ) and the 4-day spray already diluted to 5% purchased from the same site, we treated the last few surfaces, such as the car (we focused especially on the boot, where our dog stays when we travel, and on the floors) and possibly the areas at our parents' house where our dog was likely to have stayed for longer (but we did this more lightly, as there was no real infestation at our parents'/family's house...).

Then we left the whole thing to marinate for at least 24 hours, came back, aired it out and started by mopping the floors with a cloth that wasn't too damp (so as not to get too much product into the gaps), especially the smooth floors (tiles, etc) which were actually a bit slimy and even slippery (I'm telling you, we put a good dose of product everywhere ;)). Then the vacuum cleaner (this time the bag was thrown away again, and the next ones won't be thrown away but at least sprayed once with an ecodoo before being put in the vacuum cleaner), and a gradual return to normal, with the feeling that we'd almost prepared for a move (except for the kitchen cupboards, which we hardly touched as the dog only goes there to eat, and the floor is tiled, so there's less risk of infestation) !

I think you need to allow a good 2 days (9am-6pm) to treat a flat (60m² for us) properly (we also have a small 50m2 garden, we just cut back on the weeds and grass, so we didn't need to spray with insecticide for 4 days). For us in any case, the time it took to tidy up, put the washable textiles in a bag or straight into the machine for the most urgent items, clean, treat, re-clean, put back in place... it took us 48 hours, just the two of us. In terms of products, we needed (still for our 60m² surface + car and a few other sprays): 250mL of 4J concentrate, 500mL of 4J diluted in a spray bottle, 1spray of 300mL of ecodoo insecticide + 1 garden spray bottle, and of course cleaning gloves and big bags for the clothes (we used the recycling bags distributed free of charge by our town!) Honestly, it was hard work, but what a relief to find a flea-free apartment !

I personally couldn't believe it! It's been 1 month now, and 0 fleas to report! We didn't even need to retreat! Of course, for the time being, and I think for at least the next 12 months, we'll continue to treat our dog with Adv*c*t* every month... If I'm taking the time to write all this, it's because it's been a pain for us, but I'm happy to have found a solution to treat our environment effectively and as naturally as possible. Admittedly, it does seem a bit expensive (but personally, after 2 failed foggers, I didn't care what it cost!), it's a manual treatment so it's a bit tedious (but hey, you just have to get started, then it's fine), and the product is a bit viscous... But I don't regret it for a second, and if I had to do it again, I'd do it without even going through the - in my opinion totally useless - foggers stage! And that's it! Thank you Penntybio for giving us the tools to get rid of those daily flea bites! And once the "flea paranoia" is completely forgotten (in 1 or 2 years? :)), I may even try to do without the Adv*c*te pipette on my dog, and replace it with one of your products... To be seen :). I hope that this testimonial will help others like us to regain peace of mind, and will also restore confidence in "natural" products (even if, of course, natural does not mean that there is no toxicity for any living organism, natural pyrethrum, after reading several articles, still seems to be a lesser evil...).

Cheer up to all those who are struggling with an insect infestation: it can be overcome! :)


Here's what a moving flea looks like

Frequently asked questions about fleas

Q : Our 21-month-old cat, who weighs 6.5 kg, was infested with fleas last summer; she lives mainly indoors. To eradicate the fleas both on her and in our house, we've used a multitude of chemical and natural products to no avail (still fleas), plus her skin has flaked and her black coat is full of white spots: is this dandruff or flea eggs ? What's more, we think our dining room floor is decorated with flea cocoons (encrusted black dots that we can't remove). Thank you for your natural and, above all, effective advice.
A :  I know that cats don't like this, but you should start by giving her a special flea shampoo and a lice comb (see our "Protecting your pets" category). After that, you can treat her to prevent further infestations. For the floor, you can treat with our 4J insecticide. This will kill fleas and eggs.

Q : I'm interested in your anti-flea products for dogs and cats. However, I'm surprised that essential oils are used in products for cats, as they can be toxic or even fatal even in very small doses! For more information, see this website: https://www.thelavendercat.com/ On the other hand, the collar doesn't seem to contain any (plant extracts). I look forward to hearing from you Martine, a very satisfied customer of your cosmetics and cleaning products.
A : There was an error in the description text. We've changed it. Certain molecules with a repellent action are extracted from essential oils. For more information, please see our dossier on essential oils and cats.

Q : Despite being treated for fleas and wearing a collar, our cat still has them because he scratches himself, and they've certainly taken up residence in our bedroom and on the sofa because I've been bitten. I used 4J PYRETHRE 5% insecticide, which I sprayed on the mattress and sofa. I washed the pillows and cushions, but to no avail. What product should I use for this problem, and above all, what product would you advise me to spray on the mattress and sofa where we can access them without risk to ourselves? I'd like to thank you in advance for your reply and will place an order as soon as I know the magic formula. I forgot to tell you that the bedroom has a strip parquet floor, which I also sprayed with the product. The hoover is vacuumed every week, including the mattress on both sides and the same for the sofa.
A : Our insecticide only kills fleas that have been touched by the product (contact insecticide). To be effective, you first need to make sure that your pet is free of fleas and eggs, as well as its nappy or cushion. For parquet flooring, it's a bit more complicated, but you'll find the answers in our "parquet flea" dossier.

Q : I have a small pebble driveway and my husband has noticed that fleas are nesting there. What product should I use to kill them, as our dogs are always full of fleas despite treatments ?
A : Simply treat your driveway with our 4J insecticide as if you were treating a wooden floor. Treat at the coolest times of the day so that the pyrethrum in the product is not damaged too quickly by the UV rays.

Q : Is there an essential oil to diffuse against wood fleas? I've heard that chamomile or mint are effective, true or false ? but is an oil suitable, if not, what else? thanks for the answer, no need to tell me about commercial fumigators, I know them !
A : You can always diffuse whatever essential oil you like, but if you have flea eggs or larvae, they won't go away. You have to destroy them with a contact insecticide, starting, of course, by treating your pets.

Q : I have a cat who is about 3 and a half months old. We've had him since mid-September. Today we've realised that despite the products we've used to get rid of the fleas, he still has them and the worst thing is that now we're being attacked ourselves. On your website there are products but I'm a bit lost. Could you help me, knowing that we have a large 240m² house and that most of the floors are made of wood, and if there's anything we can use on our cat ?
A : Unlike dog fleas, cat fleas attack humans. You can find out more about house and cat fleas in our "Floor flea" dossier.

Q : How can I get rid of flat fleas ? What is the most natural product possible ? The least harmful (baby!!!) ? What treatment ? For how long ?
A : As fleas are relatively easy to get rid of, you can use our Insecticide for all insects (4J diluted at 5%) and/or Ecodoo Ready-to-use Insecticide. The former is more suitable for treating large surfaces and parquet flooring, the latter more for treating beds, sofas or enclosed spaces (cupboards, wardrobes, etc).

Q : Is there a simple way of killing fleas and their eggs at all stages in clothing ? Like, for example, drowning them by soaking the clothes in water for an hour before putting them in the washing machine, or washing the clothes at a certain temperature (which one: 40° or 60° or 90°), or ironing them at what temperature, or putting them in the fridge, freezer, or exposing them to light, or putting them in a plastic bag for how long with... or, or, or, ???
A : The flea likes temperatures between 18 and 27°C and a humidity level of around 70%. The flea dies if you expose it for an hour to a temperature > 39°C, but also if you put your clothes in the freezer.

Q : I've noticed several bites that should be flea bites, but I don't have any pets or people around me. How can you have fleas in your home if you don't have pets ?
A : If it's not fleas, maybe it's bedbugs? But you could very well have brought some home in your clothes.

Q : Every year for the last 8 years I've had an invasion of fleas (not animal fleas, but I think floor fleas).
A : A floor flea is just a flea from an animal that develops in the grooves of the floor! See also our "parquet flea" dossier.

Q : Hello, we're currently being invaded by fleas in a new house. We've treated the house and garage twice with foggers bought at high prices from chemists. The problem is that the garage (which is not waterproof) is still infested this morning (the treatment was carried out the evening before yesterday!), as is the landing/threshold of the garage and above all the courtyard, which is completely covered in gravel. Can you help me urgently ? We have 2 cats and young children, and my pregnant partner is very bitten by fleas, so we're particularly interested in your organic products that are safe for humans.
A : You should be aware that some commercially available fumigants are totally ineffective (we've had a lot of feedback from our customers) and that in any case they don't kill the eggs. They need to be supplemented with a "liquid" contact insecticide treatment. See also our "floor flea" dossier.

Q : My house is overrun with fleas, they're everywhere - the parquet floors, the beds, the sofas - .... and they're black and brown. I've tried the products sold in chemists' shops but they're not very effective and they make me ill. I have a dog and a cat at home, I live on a farm and my farm buildings are also infested.
A : Rule no. 1: you must also treat your animals, otherwise treating the buildings won't be enough. All the answers to your questions can be found in our special report on floor fleas. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : A huge problem: my cats and dog are treated for fleas with sprays, pipettes and collars, but we're invaded by fleas outside, in the grass, on the ground ... so even with the treatments when my animals go into the garden .... it's a never-ending cycle and we can't find any solution, all the sprays are for indoors, except for a powder but no result. Thank you for your reply.
A : You can use our 4J insecticide to treat outdoors, but it will quickly biodegrade. For fleas, a 5% dilution is sufficient. Apply to dry soil, preferably in the evening, to limit the destructive action of UV rays and heat on pyrethrum. All fleas affected by the product will die.

Q : WWhat can I use against fleas in tropical regions ?
A : If fleas are in your home, the treatment remains the same as for fleas encountered in France. Like most insects, fleas can transmit diseases. All the answers to your questions can be found in our special report on floor fleas. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Can you suggest an anti-flea and tick solution for cats ?
A : Cats are very sensitive to all products, so you shouldn't apply just any product. You'll find various repellent products in our "Pet protection" section.)

Q : Hello - I'm a man and I have fleas - I'm looking for a body product + an anti-flea shampoo for humans.
A : There's no specific product for men, but the anti-lice shampoo should normally also be effective against fleas.

Q : Hello, I'm a bit confused by all your products. My flat is infested with fleas, even though I haven't had any pets for a month. I also have wooden floors and carpets at home, so what should I use? I've already treated three times with products bought in pet shops but the fleas have reappeared and are very attracted to my skin! Please tell me which of your products would be suitable.
A : You can have fleas for up to 1 year after having animals, as the eggs are very resistant. The insecticides you find in pet shops, chemists or supermarkets are often not enough to get rid of them. In particular, they will not destroy the eggs. Eggs need to be treated with a contact treatment such as our 4J insecticide. To protect you from bites, we have a highly effective insect repellent skin spray based on eucalyptus citriodora. To find out more about the treatment protocol and all the products you'll need for a flea treatment, please read or re-read our special report on this insect. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : We have almost 200 m2 + 1x 1kg kitten (2 1/2 months) and 1x 9kg dog to treat. Recurrence of fleas with Frontline + frequent spraying of flea repellent throughout the house (carpets, litter, animal beds) but to no avail. Can you give us a quote for all the products needed to get rid of all the fleas, eggs and larvae. Are your products 100% effective ? We've had enough of all these fleas !
A : For the Fro*tli*e brand product, it's not surprising. Several customers have already told us that fleas get used to this type of product. That's why Fro*tli*e co*bo (new version) was launched. As far as animals are concerned, our products are best used as a preventive rather than a curative measure, with the possible exception of our ALT'O ZINSECT insect repellent spray or gel, which gives good results on most insects. It can be used on all warm-blooded animals, except cats, which cannot be treated with essential oils. For your home, use 1 litre of diluted insecticide per 10m² of surface area. If it's done properly, a single treatment is enough. Given your surface area, it's best to use 4j in its concentrated form and dilute it to 5%. This will be enough to destroy the fleas. For more information and answers, go to our special report on floor fleas.

Q : Are there any repellents that can be applied to the body to prevent flea bites ?
A : Our anti-insect skin spray should also be effective against fleas. It contains eucalyptus citriodora, which has a remarkable repellent effect on all biting and sucking insects like fleas. But I'd also advise you to treat the fleas themselves, otherwise you're only doing half the job !

Q : I've been fighting fleas for a year now. I was sharing a flat with someone who had a cat that brought fleas back with it. I've been living without a pet for 4 months now and I still can't get rid of them, especially in my clothes (especially trousers and jeans). I spray my clothes with insecticide every day but they always come back !
A : Fleas don't live in clothes. However, they do seek out your body heat and blood to feed. You need to treat your flat properly and wash your clothes at the same time.

Q : Our hen house is infested with fleas. How can we get rid of them ?
A : Start by cleaning it thoroughly (droppings, straw, etc.), then use a garden sprayer to treat all the surfaces with our insecticide (diluted at 5%). Repeat the treatment a week later.

Q : My son has just rented a house and there are fleas in the bedroom. My daughter-in-law was bitten 45 times in one day. What's more, there's parquet flooring in the bedroom. Thank you for your reply.
A : No, a smoke bomb won't be enough. As well as not working properly (it won't destroy the flea eggs), it will intoxicate you for a long time. All the answers to your questions can be found in our special report on floor fleas. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Hello, my daughter has fleas in her house. I think they're probably floor fleas, but I think it was her cat that brought them in. We've already cleaned everything and put smoke bombs in the rooms but she still has them. I'd like to know how to get rid of them or if the smoke will still work afterwards. Thank you in advance. Have a nice day.
A : Fumigants are effective (not all of them!!) on insects, but not on eggs, and I don't think they last long after they've been used. All the answers to your questions can be found in our report on floor fleas. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : Can you tell me which of the products you sell is the most effective in getting rid of the fleas I have in my flat ? I am waiting for your reply before placing an order. Thank you for your help.
A : The products we sell often have complementary actions. But if you only want to use one, the most essential of all will be our 4J insecticide. It's easy to find on our website. It is available in either diluted (ready-to-use) or pure form, which you can dilute yourself to the desired concentration. The 5% dilution is the one we recommend against fleas.

Q : After using 5 smoke bombs for 3 normal-sized bedrooms, I still have fleas on my parquet floor. I was angry and washed it this morning with hot, heavily bleached water, but there's still nothing on my legs. I've been in this house for almost a year. Last year a fumigant was enough. I'd like some advice, at little cost, if possible, thank you. I have a cat and I don't want to part with it.
A : You should be aware that fumigants don't kill the eggs, and hatching can be very rapid. First check that your cat isn't carrying fleas and eggs before continuing to treat, otherwise you're wasting your time.

Q : We've bought a barn with 200 m2 of living space and we're breaking up and rebuilding our house. But we're getting bitten by fleas. There are lots of them, and we've used smoke bombs, but they're still there. What do you recommend? + And a repellent for us, please.
A : Fumigants can be effective, but only in a totally enclosed room and they don't kill the eggs. You can either treat several times with fumigants at 48-hour intervals, but there's no guarantee that you'll get rid of them all, or you can treat with our liquid insecticide + a fumigant. Repeat the operation 1 week later. To protect yourself, our anti-insect skin spray will give excellent results against bites.

Q : Hi, I went to stay with a friend of mine who has a cat that carries fleas. I caught some and got bitten by this parasite. The same day I went to stay with my friend, I went to bed with another friend who has seven cats. I'd like to know if I could have passed on these fleas to her cats, or even to my cat, and above all what I can do to stop my bites itching. My doctor prescribed cortisone and said it was to help me but it still itches, please help me !
A : A cat flea can pass to humans or dogs and return to the cat. So you could have transmitted it or them elsewhere. For the bite, we often use lavandin essential oil or our roll on, which calms the itching.

Q : Is the ALT'O ZINSECT spray effective against fleas too ? Can it be used for dogs and cats ? Can the 30 ml Zéro puce be used once on the animal or several times ?
A : Our ALT'O ZINSECT insect repellent spray is highly effective on all parasites. Particularly biting and sucking insects such as fleas. It can be applied to dogs, but avoid applying it to cats. They are too sensitive. Otherwise, it can be used on all animals. For the 30 ml Margosa pipette product, it will depend on the size of the animal. Normally, 30 ml will allow you to carry out several treatments without any problems.

Q : How can I get rid of fleas and why are they there ?
A : All the answers to your questions can be found in our special report on floor fleas. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : I have fleas on my 2 cats, a rabbit and a guinea pig that won't go away despite combing and the vet's Frontline combo products. Smaller fleas have been in the house since June. When I came back from holiday, there were some on the floor, and you could see them when they jumped on your legs. I did the Kappo treatment on 28 July, using smoke and bombs for 6 hours all over the house, but since then I've seen one or two a day, and yesterday I saw 3 in the crumbs I picked up with the broom. I put another bomb in the room all night with the cupboards open. Why haven't they died, how can I get rid of them, where are the larvae? is there a nest ? how can I treat the animals that haven't been in the house since. What do you advise ? I despair of succeeding, and yet I clean very often. I don't like using all these insecticides either, I'm afraid the children will breathe them in and my tortoise aquarium may suffer. I also have caged birds, can they have any ? Thank you in advance for your help.
A : Why didn't they die ? Fumigants don't kill the eggs and hatching can be very rapid (heat+humidity). How do you get rid of them ? All the answers to your questions in our dossier on floor fleas. Where are the larvae ? Is there a nest ? Everywhere your pets have been, since the eggs fall out of their coats and mainly into the grooves of parquet floors (hence the name floor flea). They can remain active for several months or even longer! How should animals be treated? We have a wide range of products on our site, but mainly for preventive treatment. Very effective and safe for animals.

Q : I have 40 dogs to treat against fleas and was thinking of making a bath by mixing Penntybio insecticide with water (2%). What kind of product should I use ?
A : For fleas or ticks, we recommend a treatment with a concentration of 5%. The 1.5% concentration can only be used for very small insects such as mites, red spiders, etc. If the product is not sufficiently concentrated, it will not be effective. In the bath, you can try a 1% concentration, but I'm not sure this will be effective on eggs.

Q : My basement is infected with fleas, I've tried everything: fumigants, fooger, raspberry vinegar, white vinegar and there are still some. The floor isn't smooth and I'm worried that the products I use will be absorbed by the floor; what can I do, without removing the stuff we've stored ?
A : Fumigants are generally quite effective, at least on adults (they won't kill the eggs), provided they are of good quality and the premises are completely airtight. Several treatments with 4J diluted to 5% with a sprayer should enable you to get rid of them. Treat every 2 to 3 days, to eliminate hatchlings as you go along.

Q : Is natural vanilla a flea repellent ?
A : Perhaps, but we have no information on this property of vanilla.

Q : Good evening, I can't get rid of floor fleas and they jump on my children. Tell me what product I should use ? I also have some in front of my French window; I've already bought sprays that you put on the floor and have to leave the room. Thank you for your reply.
A : We have a special page on fleas and floor fleas. For treatment, you can use pure 4j insecticide diluted 5% in water.

Q : My house is invaded by fleas, especially on the wooden floors. What product should I use to get rid of them, bearing in mind that I have children and pets ?
A : We have a file on floor fleas which should give you lots of answers. Our 4J insecticide can be used with children and pets without worry. Just take them out of the treated rooms for a few hours while the treatment is being carried out and ventilate well.

Q : What insecticides should I use to kill fleas in the home ?
A : Our all-insect insecticide 4J diluted at 5%.

Q : We have four cats and a dog and we're currently being invaded by fleas. Do you have a natural solution to get rid of them ?
A : You need to start by treating your animals if you haven't already done so, to eliminate the source. Once you've treated your pets, you'll need to treat the places where they sleep, baskets, carpets, etc. (and maybe your whole house, depending on the extent of the invasion) with an insecticide. Our 4J liquid insecticide will help you get rid of the problem. Don't hesitate to consult our file on floor fleas. You'll find plenty of answers there.

Q : I came across your site by chance. I'm going to order but could you help me first? I'm a care assistant and I get bitten by fleas from my patients' cats in the calf and foot areas (even the doctors didn't know about these spots). I've already tried quite a few products; the last one I use is white vinegar mixed with an insecticide that I put on my feet and legs. I know it's not good for my skin but I don't know what to do any more. Could you please help me find a solution ?
A : As I don't suppose you can kill your patients' fleas, you have to protect yourself by using a repellent product that you put on your legs. I don't see the point of the product you're using at the moment. Vinegar is good for soothing bites, but what's the point of insecticide? On the site you'll find several products to soothe insect bites and repellents, as well as an anti-insect skin spray that can also be used to protect against bites.

Q : Hello, I live in a flat and have 7 cats that I sometimes take out and that have fleas. I've been told that essential oils on cats are not recommended, what do you think ? and what product would you recommend for cats and the home ?
A : It's true that it's not advisable to use essential oils on cats. Generally speaking, essential oils alone are rarely effective against fleas, at least as a cure. We have several products for cats, including the flea collar and zero flea. These products should be used as a preventive measure, but some cats run the risk of allergic reactions (geraniol), as do all commercial flea products.

Q : How do I clean wooden floors if there are fleas ?
A : All the answers to your questions can be found in our special report on floor fleas. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any further questions.

Q : I've just discovered your product range and I'm very interested. I've had an invasion of fleas in my house and I can't get rid of them. I have a small child and an infant, so I'd like to be sure that it's safe. I'd also like to know how to use the product, as I can't spray on every single flea. Is there some kind of diffuser that you leave on to kill all the bugs in a room ? Thank you in advance for your reply.
A : All our insecticides are completely safe for children. Normally, in the event of a flea infestation, all infested areas (parquet floors, skirting boards, cupboards, etc.) must be treated thoroughly to destroy both the fleas and their eggs. It's best to use our 4J insecticide diluted 5% with water in a garden spray bottle.

Q : Can the insecticide be sprayed in the animal's bedding ? Is it effective on larvae, nymphs, eggs or just adult fleas ?
A : Our insecticide can be sprayed on any surface. It is effective on the entire insect cycle, from egg to adult.

Q : There are fleas in my daughter's flat (50m²) due to the presence of her ferret. What can I do to make sure the whole flat is "disinfected" ?
A : I think you need to start by treating the animal. Then treat the place where the animal sleeps (basket, carpet, etc.) with 4J insecticide. Normally, animal fleas don't go on humans (except cat fleas). If there really is an infestation, you'll need to use a garden sprayer and treat the whole flat.

Q : I'd like to know what products you have that are effective against fleas on carpets and rugs.
A : Our insecticide is effective on fleas (eggs, adults) but also on mites. The amount of product to use will depend on the thickness of the carpet. A few hours after treatment, vacuum up any dead insects.

Q : Do you have a radical product against microscopic floor fleas ?
A : Yes, our insecticide "all insects 4J diluted 5%" will be perfect for getting rid of these unwanted little creatures. If you have a small surface area, a spray bottle may be enough. On the other hand, for large surfaces, treatment will be much more effective and simpler with a garden-type pressure sprayer. Systematic treatment will be necessary, so don't forget nooks and crannies, skirting boards, etc.

Q : How do I get rid of fleas in a flat? These fleas were brought in by a dog who had lots of them. At the moment I've sprayed the rooms with an anti-flea spray I bought at a chemist's, then washed the floors with bleach, and at night I've opened the windows because I've been told that the cold kills fleas. Unfortunately, since they've been in my flat they've bitten me and I've got lots of patches on my body: legs, arms, back, hands, feet. So, if you could give me an answer as soon as possible, that would help me and I'd feel better about myself. Thank you in advance.
A : It's not easy, especially if your floor is parquet or if you have skirting boards - they'll settle in every nook and cranny they come across! Just spraying a room with a smoke bomb isn't enough. You need to treat all the places where they can hide, such as your mattress and carpets. Our 4J insecticide is perfect for this type of insect. A spray bottle is not enough when you want to treat large surfaces, so you can use a garden-type pressure sprayer. The cold kills fleas. As for bleach, I'm not sure it can kill them !

Q : Flea problem: need information for effective treatment of flea infestation for total destruction of fleas and their eggs. Area to be treated: a basement of 200m2 for urgent intervention.
A : You can use our 4J insecticide. This product should be sprayed with a garden-type pressure sprayer over the entire surface of your room, especially in the nooks and crannies (skirting boards, parquet joints, cracks, etc.). However, don't forget to treat your pets, if you have any, with an effective veterinary product. If the insecticide is applied correctly, it's radical.

Q : Following the ban on the highly toxic fipronil, I'm looking for an organic insecticide for cats. Does it exist ?
A : We have several products for treating cats that you can find on our website. They are not insecticides but repellents. They are totally non-toxic to humans and pets.

Q : How do I get rid of fleas ?
A : The solution is simple, but can be a little time-consuming depending on the degree of invasion and the surface area to be treated. You need to treat the entire room or rooms where the fleas are found, and especially all the nooks and crannies where they live, such as parquet floors, skirting boards, washing sheets, treating mattresses, and possibly cupboards and wardrobes. To do this, you need to use a garden pressure sprayer that you set fairly fine, but not a fog (Droplets = 100 to 200 microns, Diffusion pressure=1.6 bar). You use approximately 1l of diluted insecticide / 10 m2 of surface treated. As the insecticide kills eggs, larvae and insects, if the treatment is well done, you should be rid of them.

Q : Our cats regularly sleep in the bedding and for the last two weeks we've been bitten every night by fleas. We've tried several products but to no avail. We can't see the fleas and so don't even know exactly where to spray. What's the solution ?
A : Fleas generally settle between the floorboards or behind the skirting boards. It's then easy for them to bite your legs when you enter certain rooms. In any case, our insecticide is effective on all insects. I think you'll need to treat the cats with a veterinary product, then their baskets and bedding, but also wash your sheets and blankets and treat the mattress base with our 4J insecticide diluted at 5%. In the case of parquet fleas, you'll also need to treat the parquet and skirting boards. You'll find all the information you need on our parquet fleas page. Don't hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

Q : Is a mothball good for keeping fleas away ?
A : No, it won't be effective.

Q : What do you think of those who say not to use products containing essential oils for a cat ?
A : That's right, cats lack a major enzyme (glucuronyl transferase) which allows them to break down certain molecules in order to make them soluble, which then allows them to evacuate them from their body through their urine. Due to the absence of this molecule, the essential oils cannot be degraded and will accumulate in his liver. This accumulation in the long run can lead to the death of the animal.

Q : What is the composition of flea pipettes for cats ?
A : The active molecule is geraniol.

Q :  I am interested in your zero cat flea product. On the other hand, the description is not detailed enough on your site. It is said to be based on essential oil extracts. I know they can be dangerous for cats. Are these hydrosols rather ?
A : The instructions for the conditioner are very vague, however the manufacturer of the product assured us that it was large molecule geraniol which does not penetrate the skin.

Q : I would like to know if the flea and tick repellent collar for dogs that you sell is effective against mosquitoes? I live in the south of France, we have many cases of leishmaniasis and I am worried about my dog.
A : Manufacturer testing is chip and tick. It also specifies "and biting insects" without further precision, which is normal, it is impossible to verify the effectiveness of the product on all biting insects! I therefore cannot assure you that this collar is repellent to all mosquitoes.

Q : Before I order zero chips from you, I would like to know the shelf life of the product once opened, please.
R : At least 1 year, under normal storage conditions.

Q : Regarding the packaging of the “Margosa” 30 ml, could you please tell me if it is a bottle of 30 ml or 30 pipettes of 1 ml? If it is indeed a 30 ml bottle as I think, is there a dosing system in order to be able to distribute 1 ml on the animal ?
A : It is indeed a single pipette, containing 30 ml of margosa. Just press it to squeeze out the liquid. Pour the desired dose directly on the skin of the animal, on the back, behind the head. Spread your pet's hair as much as possible in order to put the product in contact with the skin. In the case of an animal over 8 kg, distribute the dose in two places: behind the head and in the middle of the back. For an animal weighing more than 15 kg, distribute the dose this time in three points: behind the head, in the middle of the back and at the bottom of the back. If you have trouble estimating the dose you apply, you can buy a 1 ml pipette in parallel.

Q :  I am a horse breeder in the Allier and I am very interested in the use of Neem oil as an insecticide to ward off the flat flies that infest our horses. Can you tell me at what concentration to use this oil, by applying it directly to the affected areas.
A :  Regarding neem oil, I cannot answer you, it will depend on its quality and especially on its concentration of azadirachtin. On the other hand, we market an insect repellent perfectly suited for horses: ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel. A formula combining 3 recognized active ingredients (Eucalyptus citriodora, vegetable pyrethrum and geraniol), extremely effective in keeping biting insects at bay.

Q : Hello, I am a sheep breeder in Lozère and my sheepfold which is 600m² as well as the barn which is 200m² are invaded by fleas. I treat regularly with dympigal but I can't eradicate them. I am looking for a product that destroys eggs.
A : Our 4J insecticide based on pyrethrum and potassium soap destroys fleas, larvae, eggs. Eggs can only be destroyed by "mechanical" and non-neurotoxic means. In our case, it is black soap. To eradicate fleas, it is above all necessary that the carrier animals, often cats, are treated correctly otherwise the possibility is left for living fleas to continue to reproduce !

Q : I received the Cani science collars; I don't understand the explanations. A video seems to be necessary ?
A : You are the first person to tell us about the difficulty of putting on this collar unless your collar has a problem, just pass the strap through the loop and if it is too long, we cut the excess with scissors. Do not hesitate to contact us if these explanations are not sufficient.

Q : I am looking for a product allowing me to preventively treat my home against fleas because I have two cats. I am looking for the most natural (and most economical possible) solution. What would you advise me ? >Note: I already use Hery Zero chip pipettes, so it would be a supplement.
A : If taking the normal flea cycle, one treatment every 2-3 weeks is sufficient. On the other hand, if your cat begins to scratch or if you see fleas, it will be necessary to intervene very quickly.

Q : We would like to use one of your products to treat against the BOOPHILUS MICROPLUS tick our herd in Limousin (about a hundred cows/calves/bulls) certified ORGANIC. Livestock farming in New Caledonia is very extensive (no buildings, herds only eat grass). The tick in New Caledonia has become resistant to 3 chemical molecules.
A : For the treatment of animals against ticks, we recommend our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray. This product has been developed for horses, donkeys, ponies, cows, sheep...

Q : I have just read very carefully your pages concerning the cat and floor flea. For the past few weeks I have been finding fleas in my house. We are little stung, we do not "see" fleas every day... But still! We already used a fogger more than 3 weeks ago and I would like to avoid having to reuse one. We have a baby (1 month) and a 2 year old, so I prefer the "natural" methods. I regularly spray the house with water mixed with essential oils of mint, lavender, etc. Obviously, that's not enough. Also, I'm thinking of testing your insecticide. We have tomettes and parquet floors in the house. If I apply 4J in the bedrooms (parquet), especially the children's bedroom, should I wash on the floor afterwards? Or after what time? They are at an age (or will reach an age) where they play on the floor, put everything in their mouths...etc. And I fear for their health! How many hours until the kids can come home ?
A : Before any treatment, your pet must be thoroughly treated with a veterinary "insecticide". Avoid the Fro*tli*e if you have a cat we have a lot of inefficiency feedback. When the animal is fully protected and no longer a carrier, treatment can then be considered. Regarding the fogger, it pollutes your environment and in any case will not destroy the eggs. Regularly spray essential oils of mint, lavender, etc. it must smell very good but it is totally ineffective on insects. It destroys bacteria! If you use a 5% concentration with the 4J, it is not necessary to wash on the floor; let dry with the current heat it goes very quickly. Our insecticide contains pyrethrum, soap, essential oils, so it is completely safe in a home; now it is obvious when you treat, that it is better to avoid objects which risk being licked (just like a cleaning product for washing).

Q : Following your answer, I ordered the insecticide and I sprayed with it, all the parquet, all the baseboards, the stairs, etc. I sprayed Ecodoo the sofas and bedding. And of course I washed the sheets and covers. The cats had been treated the day before. Since spring, I treat them every 2 or 3 weeks. The fleas came to us through a third party. Brief. Following the home treatment, we went 3 days without seeing any fleas. We left for 10 days. On our return, 3 days without fleas. Then on the 4th day I found 1 flea on my foot when I was on the couch. We left again the next day. It's been over a week already. I'm anxious for the return: can this presage an invasion ? In your opinion, what is better to do? Redo a full treatment ? Reprocess only the room (wooden baseboard tile and sofa) ? Treat only the couch ? Or something else ?
A : Before any treatment of your interiors, your pet must be thoroughly treated with a veterinary "insecticide". Avoid the Fro*tli*e if you have a cat. We have a lot of inefficiency feedback! When the animal is fully protected and no longer a carrier, we can consider treating the area. If your cat is perfectly protected and you haven't seen a flea for a week, it's because hidden larvae have just turned into fleas; between the egg and the chip it takes 10 days. If there are eggs or larvae, try to find the spaces where they are hiding and treat accordingly with our insecticide.

Q : First of all, congratulations for your site which is full of information, which is very practical. Despite all my reading, I still have a few questions, I think you can enlighten me because you seem to have conducted a lot of research. We have a cat and my questions are related to her. You say that pyrethroids are dangerous for cats, this is the case even if they come from natural pyrethrum? So is 4J dangerous for cats? Of course, I close the room I'm treating and ventilate a lot before letting our cat in. Can you give me the deadlines to respect because we are invaded by fleas and the Ecodoo spray does not seem to be enough? I want to eradicate them but not harm our cat. I ordered 4J product and I don't want to make any mistakes. On the other hand, essential oils are deadly for cats, however, in natural products, there are some (geraniol, margosa, linalool...). Are these products really safe for cats? I dare not buy the Adios spray because it is noted that there is lavender and tea tree essential oil. Likewise for diatomaceous earth, it is noted not to swallow. However, a cat licks itself as soon as a new product is put on it. It is also noted not to put it in contact with the skin, but it is spread on the skin of the cat.
A : Pyrethrum can be dangerous to a cat, like most products if you apply it to them. The product being absorbed when it is licked. The 4j is a surface treatment insecticide unlike the Ecodoo which is sprayed into the air, so there is no delay, just open the window when treating. Adios Double Action spray is not made for cats. Moreover, on the product sheet, we indicate it since we recommend the Penntybio dry shampoo. Diatomaceous earth is not dangerous if taken in small quantities since it is also sold as a feed supplement for livestock. In any case, for a cat, it will be necessary to pass after the application of the product its hair with a fine comb (lice comb) to remove the dead fleas and eliminate part of the soil.

Q : Can 4J insecticide be used on pets ?
A : In theory yes, since pyrethrum is very often used on animals but in low concentrations < 0.5%. In practice no, since it is an insecticide approved for building treatments, and not for veterinary use.

Q : Having just discovered fleas in a house that my son has just bought, I discovered your site. Can you help us treat these fleas with your advice and organic products, his companion being 3 and a half months pregnant ? Can we buy online or are your products sold in organic stores ?
A : No problem with our products. All our products and treatment information are available in our special file "parquet chip". Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions after reading the file. Product can only be ordered online in our shop. We do not distribute to brands or specialized stores.

Q : Are the pipettes with Margosa Penn'Ty Bio extract in 30ml usable for several applications ? Once opened, do they recap so as to keep the product useful ?
A : Yes, can be used multiple times. It has a small cap to close it. Remember to keep away from light and preferably in a cool place (avoid the refrigerator).

Q : I have 6 llamas and they have lots of flies around their eyes and bodies; I would like to know if your product can be applied to this kind of animals; the composition of the product is plant-based, tell yourself, is the total composition of the product indicated on the bottle, and is it really natural without risk of inhalation by the treated animal and the human and other animal environment ?
A :You don't mention the product but I think you are talking about our insect repellent ALT'O ZINSECT spray or gel. This product can be used on most animals. No problem for use on a llama. Its Safety Data Sheet, available on our site, indicates no risk and danger phrases for use in humans, animals or nature. As mentioned, this product only repels biting and sucking insects (flat flies, horseflies, ticks, etc.).

Q : How do you deal with a heavily flea-infested outdoor environment...dry dirt ground..
A : You need a garden type sprayer, 5 liters of water in which you incorporate a 250ml bottle of 4J concentrate. Which gives you 5% focus. That's enough to cure the chip. Then, you water the entire infested surface (50m²). Any affected fleas will die but no afterglow. Do the treatment during the cooler hours and exposed to the sun to limit the degradation of pyrethrum by UV rays. Attention, also, if this type of treatment will kill a good part of the fleas, it will not spare the other insects of your garden, like the auxiliaries.

Q : Since January we have had fleas coming and going. We treat with fogger, turpentine and the cat is also treated. Unfortunately, these little buggers love the raw parquet on our floor (we don't see any downstairs), especially in our bedroom. The last time (April) they left for good after treating our floors with turpentine. But last week we left for three days and on our return with the heat: INVADED with fleas, a dozen on each leg when we set foot in our room. We foggered the whole house, we vacuumed, we put turpentine several times, they are much less numerous but there are always some ! We don't know what to do anymore... > It seems that you have the miracle product to get rid of it ! I'm a taker because the next step is to call on a pest control specialist, I can't take it anymore !
A : If your animal is perfectly treated and no longer has fleas, we invite you to read our file dedicated to this insect. We explain the treatment protocol with the most appropriate products. Be careful when using the fogger. It's good for adult fleas, but totally ineffective on eggs! You absolutely must treat in parallel with a contact insecticide like our 4J.

Q : On the meadows, behind the house, we are invaded by small black bugs that sting and leave red halos. 3 years ago, I treated with your product: 4J PENN'TY bio, it was effective, I have the same problem again and I treated the same way but with a 250ML bottle, it rest of the critters and after your answer I recommend the product, I point out that the critters jump like fleas.
A : Regarding jumping "critters", it could well be fleas. This is very common in hot weather. These fleas can be deposited by many mammals, cats of course, but also others, such as hedgehogs.

Q : I wanted to know what I can do because my cat is allergic to dust mite droppings. He sleeps on a fleece blanket. I would like to be able to eradicate them, but without intoxicating my cat who is also asthmatic (I think it must be linked).
A : Cats don't really like bug spray. I would rather recommend a product based on Neem which acts less quickly but which lasts longer and which does not contain neurotoxic. See for example our ARIES Dust Mite Spray.

Q : I bought some Margosa insect repellent from you for my cat. I can't find any information telling me how often I should put it on him. Can you tell me where to find this information ?
A : For maximum protection, it will be necessary to reapply a dose of repellent each time the animal has been heavily wet (rain, bath) or at least once every 3 weeks.

Q : Could you advise me on a product in your extensive range to treat floor chips. We have a cat, who also has fleas..... My daughter is getting bitten at the moment, she is full of itchy pimples, yet it is episodic (the 2nd time it happens) ! I don't think it's the cat fleas..... Floor flea that is rampant with the heat that has returned...
A : Cat fleas that are in floor crevices are very common. Rule n°1: Treat your cat with a veterinary insecticide such as Stro*gho*d. As long as your cat has fleas, there is no solution! See also our special file "parquet chip". You will find there many answers as well as the appropriate products for the treatment of fleas. Do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

Q : A fan of aromatherapy, I'm still a little afraid to use geraniol pipettes on my cats. You offer a special formula for cats, but the presence of essential oil, however weak it may be, is not likely to be harmful for them in the long run ? It is true that I am at an impasse between systemic chemical pipettes, which are necessarily harmful, and those with geraniol, what should I choose for kitties who go out in the garden all year round and go frolicking in the forest in the summer... ?
A : We had problems a few years ago with geraniol pipettes on cats. Mainly allergic reactions resulting in redness and hair loss. We don't have any problems now, but they are likely to be less concentrated. You can try the margosa pipettes that we market which have no essential oils left at all and the margosa does not cause any reaction problems. In case of fleas on a cat, what works well is diatomaceous earth or our dry shampoo composed of talc and margosa.

Q : Thank you for confirming to me (urgent response) that the product: 4J insecticide concentrate to be diluted, will not damage my varnished parquet floors. I have been battling parquet fleas for several months and see no end to it. I therefore intend to spray this product in several rooms whose parquet floor has just been sanded/treated/varnished but where there remains, depending on the location, ''still life underneath''. And what is the appropriate aerosol to treat under baseboards that are off the ground ? Cordially
A : 4J insecticide contains potassium soap to increase its effectiveness on larvae (asphyxiating effect). When you prepare your dilution of pure product, if you use too high a dosage, there is a risk that a small greasy film will remain on the surfaces you have treated. For effective flea control, a 5% dilution is sufficient. With this dilution, you have almost no residual traces of potassium soap. Washing the floors is enough to remove this thin film. It remains soap, so it is perfectly washable with water. No problem with a floor that has been varnished. This layer is made to protect the floor. Use a damp mop and quickly dry behind with a very dry cloth.
Fleas and their larvae usually lodge in the grooves of the floor. At the bottom of the interstices, they find a refuge under the dust allowing them to be sheltered from the light. Target your treatment primarily on the floor grooves. A good vacuuming of the floors and grooves before the insecticide treatment will release as much dust as possible and increase the effectiveness of the contact insecticide. It is a question of not filling the grooves with product, which would soak the unvarnished parts of the parquet. The spray nozzle setting should be between full spray and fine mist. An intermediate setting to cover the fleas, their eggs and their larvae, without drowning them.
Regarding the most appropriate product to treat less accessible places such as the back of skirting boards, I recommend the Pistal Aries All Insects insecticide. The composition is almost the same as 4J (pyrethrum + paraffin instead of potassium soap). The advantage of this product is that it comes in the form of an aerosol. The product is therefore expelled further allowing to reach corners that are more difficult to access.

Q : I ordered products from you to treat a flea infestation. There seem to be plenty of mice under the house, and in the house. Do you know if this could be the cause of the flea infestation? Some are reappearing in the house and we are vigilant.
A : Hello. Indeed, a mouse can carry fleas but also other parasites such as lice, scabies or ringworm. Very often, they transmit them to a domestic animal which itself spreads them in the dwelling. If the mice are visible from time to time, it is therefore not impossible that they are the source of the infestation you are facing.