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The green rose aphid

 

Who's green rose aphid ?

The green aphid  - Macrosiphum sp.Latin name : Macrosiphum rosae L
Order : Hemiptera
Family : Aphididae
Size : 3 mm
Location : roses and other plants 

What you need to know about the rose aphid

The cycle of the aphid is very particular and deserves to be mentioned. It overwinters in the form of eggs in the bud scales or close to the ground on multi-annual plants. In spring, a female is born from the egg. This female gives birth directly to young aphids. The next eggs are not laid until the following autumn.

Aphids appear on young rose shoots and flower buds as soon as the weather is fine.

Their development cycle is very short (8 days at 20°C), so from spring to autumn you can have around fifteen generations colonising all your plants.

Aphids feed on plant sap. In small numbers, they pose no particular problem, apart from the risk of transmitting virus diseases. But once they become numerous, they can inhibit plant growth and cause leaf deformation.

What's more, they secrete a honeydew that encourages the growth of fumaginia (fungi), and attracts the interest of ants, who breed them for this very honeydew. 

How can I get rid of rose aphids ?

The green aphid  - Macrosiphum sp.

The main aphid predator is of course the ladybird, but there are also hoverflies and forticula.

There are a number of simple, natural methods you can use to drive them away easily :

- Nettle or fern purin : this is easy to find in garden centres. If you live in the country, it's easy to make your own. It's an excellent way to control aphids 100% organically.

- Rhubarb puree : ditto, easy to find in garden centres or make yourself (if you have rhubarb leaves in the garden, of course).

- Margosa extract : Margosa's main property is to make all treated surfaces unfit for insect consumption, so the insects either have to leave the treated area in search of food, or starve to death. Thanks to its broad spectrum and long duration of action, Margosa is effective in most infested areas. Spray application. Margosa blocks the development of larvae, disrupts the search for food and sterilises adult insects. It should be sprayed onto the plant at a concentration of 2% for preventive use and 4% for curative use.

- Washing-up liquid or Black soap : Diluted in water and sprayed onto the plant, the soap prevents aphids from sticking to the leaves.

- Plant repellent plants nearby : nasturtiums, marigolds and especially lavender will help to combat aphid invasions naturally.

 

How can I get rid of rose aphids ?

As a last resort, you can treat with our 4J small insect insecticide (diluted to 1.5%). If you have a large number of plants to treat, you can use the same product in its concentrated form and dilute it to 5% yourself. Note that this product, based on plant pyrethrum, is short-lasting. It will therefore be effective for rapid curative action, but not for long-term curative action. As soon as the insect comes into contact with the 4J product, it will die instantly (pyrethrum's neurotoxic effect).

N.B. : As this product is not approved for use in gardens, we can only recommend it for use on houseplants, window boxes or window boxes. And do not use this product in a dilution higher than 1.5% or 2%. The foliage of your plants could otherwise burn under the effect of the pyrethrum.

Photos below before and after treatment with our insecticide Small Insects 4J diluted at 1.5%.

live aphidsdead aphids

 

The products you need to control green aphids

Direct access to detailed product sheets for aphid control.

Insecticide 4J diluted 1,5% - Special...

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4J insecticide diluted to 1.5% ready to use. Ideal against small insects and mites in our homes. Available in 500 ml spray bottle or...
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4J Insecticide concentrate with plant...

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4J insecticide concentrate to be diluted. Effective against a large number of crawling and flying insects in our homes. Available in...
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Here's what the green rose aphid looks like in motion