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What you need to know about cosmetics


The consumer asks

What is it in cosmetics? from the simple ultra-sophisticated care cream soap, from the shower gel to the detangling balm. What effects do they actually have, apart from all the powers that we lend them? Are they safe for our skin, for our health, for our environment? ?


The European system incis, what is it ?

On 1 January 1998, the declaration of components is made mandatory on the European system "lncl" (international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients). the components must be listed on the packaging, the first of the list ( 4 to 8 ) is the largest part of the product. those who represent less than 2% are then listed in the disorder.
Thus an active agent representing 0.003% of the product can be found in front of a component representing 0.99%.

The colorants are noted at the end of the list under the name below (color index) followed by a number of 5 digits (corresponding to colors). for makeup products, the dyes are in brackets, and the +/- sign means that these dyes may not be all present in the same product.

This statement has a few drawbacks; the names of plants are in Latin. odorous materials are only generally indicated under the term "fragrant" or "fragrant"... it still presents the enormous advantage of informing consumers about the formulations they previously had no access to. .



The natural interpelles

The advertisers know that. They're boasting plant assets by ci, fruit acids that way. these famous active ingredients represent less than 1% of the product! But the rest is what? ?




A large part of the cosmetics comes in the form of emulsion. Cleaning milks, nutritious or moisturizing creams, bodily milks, masks, dyes, etc.
An emulsion consists of an aqueous phase, often water from elsewhere ( 1st ingredient listed on the composition "aqua ..) , a oily phase, fat, and several emulsifiers to keep the whole together. .



Why emulsions ?

Natural skin protection is an emulsion, hydrolipidic film, mixture of sebum, sweat and residues of the desquamante layer.

The application of an emulsion brings an immediate feeling of comfort according to its texture that can be variable: nourishing effect on a dry skin that removes sensations of pulling, refreshing effect on a fatty skin,etc.
The long-term effect of a daily application, can be interesting if it helps to prevent a multitude of skin disorders (dehydration, tasks, redness, water retention, ...), or embarrassing, if this hinders the natural functions of the skin and results in the aforementioned imbalances. .



Composition of emulsions

Let's get back to our emulsion. What does it hide in its oily phase? good fats probably, quality lipids, essential food of our cell membranes? Unfortunately, no.
The main fat that is used to make beauty products comes from the oil industry.
We could see a revalorization of waste... if it was our health!
This residual product from the oil refinement is paraffine (paraffinum liquidum on the declaration of components often noted after aqua). We find its derivatives under other names such as isohexadécane, isoparaffin, ceresin, vaseline. always inert matter without interest for skin care. but its low cost makes its use unavoidable for a majority of manufacturers.

Other product widely used in cosmetics: silicones.( dimethicone and all that ends with icone). synthetic products are very fine oils that allow to obtain fluid creams, pleasant texture.
But what interest in daily care? not to mention that this silicone is very little biodegradable. .



Be careful, the skin is alive !

The skin is alive and it is by treating it as such that we maintain its vitality.
It is surprising to note that all these products that are daring to prevent its ageing go against its natural functions.
Many skin problems are maintained due to poor use of cosmetic products and especially because of the use of bad products! !



The foam doesn't wash !

Ethoxidized substances (e.g., sodium laureth sulfate, 1st ingredient after aqua (water) on shampoo composition, shower gel). are at the origin of an unacceptable polluting industry for the manufacture of so-called hygiene products that are, moreover, far too aggressive for the skin and scalp.
Their only interest is to quickly form an abundant and creamy foam that gives the illusion of being washed gently. or these tensio-actives stimulate the secretion of sebum and the consumer thus enters into an infernal round.
The hair greases quickly. we make shampoos closer and closer, see for many every day. The hair is drying, we try the after-shampoing, then the nourishing care. the skin of the aggressive face will shoot or have buttons leading to the use of new products that are supposed to be ever more efficient, etc. .



Soap, a healthy and natural product !

This good old recipe, which dates from the ancient eyptus, is no longer what it was for most of the soaps currently present on the market.
Cheap paraffine, which replaces precious vegetable oils, texture agents, stabilizers, anti-oxidants, synthetic fragrances, dyes, make it a very aggressive and unusable product for daily cleaning especially on an already unbalanced skin (acne, eczema, psoriasis). .



It's the reality on cosmetics !

All these pretty little pots, tubes, well-white cream bottles that remind us of purity, which tells us of serenity, of nature, of wisdom, and of all that we thirst, are in fact only the sad residues of a black tide.
Has all this, there are non-pollutant and healthier alternatives for our skin.
Plants, in various forms (plant oils, essential oils, macera). there are for many, that is why they must be at the base of any good cosmetics.

This document is extracted from the letter Of asphodèle Bio-Esthetique, somatothérapie, formations à st georges /loire (49)